Germany Guide
Rhineland-Palatinate and Saarland
The Romantic Rhine
Upstream from Mainz, the banks of the Rhine gradually rear up to form a deep, winding 65km-long gorge popularly known as the Romantic Rhine, thanks to a series of quaint towns and a bewildering number of castles. Of course much of this romance is pure fabrication, first by the German Romantics, who rebuilt many of the castles in the nineteenth century, and subsequently by the tourist and wine industries, but nevertheless the gorge's unique geological, historical and cultural features have ensured it a place on UNESCO's list of World Heritage Sites.
The gorge itself is composed of a type of slate sedimentary rock, folds in which produced the Hunsrück mountains to the west and the Taunus mountains to the east, while the Rhine carves a passage between the two, creating steep walls that rise up to two hundred metres above the river, and its own sheltered, sun-trap microclimate. Many of the riverbank's slopes were terraced for agriculture from an early age, the south-facing ones in particular providing near-perfect conditions for viticulture. This, together with booming trade along the river, brought wealth to the string of small riverside settlements whose rulers built a series of castles to protect their interests and levy tolls. This racket was lucrative enough to make the area an important region in the Holy Roman Empire and a focus for much of the Thirty Years' War, which left many of the castles in ruins, as did French campaigns that briefly claimed this region as part of France until Prussia turned the tables in the early nineteenth century. The Prussians then spearheaded the reinvention of the region as a quintessential part of Germany, rebuilding legendary castles and featuring it in much of the art of the time. Wagner, for example, uses this stretch of the Rhine as the setting for his powerful Götterdämmerung. Since then, the tourist industry has lapped all this up, which means that coach parties are an integral part of the scenery. However, don't let this put you off: many of its castles are certainly worth a look as are its many Weinstuben for a taste of the excellent local vintages. The annual Rhine in Flames festival – which also takes place in Koblenz – is another draw, with spectacular firework displays taking place at St Goar in September.
Rhine cruises
The full range of transport options exist for this length of the Rhine: you can drive, follow cycle paths or take the train up either side of the river, and car ferries link several places. But probably the most relaxing way to travel and appreciate the scenery is to take a boat – and several companies offer hop-on, hop-off services along this stretch of the river – many conveniently beginning in Mainz, Rüdesheim or Koblenz. If you're pressed for time a day-trip is all you'll need to get a feel for the place, but if you're keen to explore some of the castles, it's worth adding a day or two to your itinerary.
There's little to choose between the half-dozen or so operators that offer cruises along the Romantic Rhine, so the convenience of their hub will tend to be the deciding factor. Most also take bikes and allow you to hop on and off, making it possible to create your own itinerary. The price of a round trip between Koblenz and Bingen – the entire Romantic Rhine – comes in at around €30 and takes three hours and thirty minutes in each direction. Virtually all services stop at every dock along the way, but double-check if you have particular destinations in mind – look too at the frequency of services, which becomes important if you want to make short stops at various places along the way.
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