Germany Guide
North Rhine-Westphalia
Drinking
1 Barney Valleley's Kleine Budengasse 7 The inevitable Irish bar and expat hangout, complete with hurling or Premiership football on TV and Guinness and Murphy's on draught.
2 Boogaloo Roonstr. 19 Hip Zülpicher Viertel bar with artfully distressed retro decor and a soul to latin music policy.
3 Brauerei em Kölsche Boor Eigelstein 121–23 
0221/13 52 27 Traditional Brauhaus a little off the beaten track, and hence less obviously touristy than some of the more central offerings, with Gaffel Kölsch to wash down the hearty and reasonably priced Rhineland dishes.
4 Brauhaus Sion Unter Taschenmacher 5–7 0221/257 85 40 Cavernous Brauhaus belonging to the Sion brewery, rebuilt after wartime destruction in finest 1950s "traditional" style; more sedate than some, with sausages and local dishes like Dicke Bohnen on the menu.
5 Früh am Dom Am Hof 12 0221/361 22 11 Much the most atmospheric (and frequently the busiest) of the big Altstadt Brauhäuser, with a labyrinthine interior. The cheeky waiters and general bustle are all part of the experience, as are the Cologne Brauhaus staples like Kölsche Kaviar and Halver Hahn.
6 Gaffel Haus Alter Markt 20–22 0221/257 76 92 A plum position on Alter Markt – complete with sunny terrace – and a dark, cluttered interior characterize this Altstadt Brauhaus, which, as the name suggests, has Gaffel Kölsch on draught as well as inexpensive local food.
7 
Hallmackenreuther Brüsseler Platz 9 0221/51 79 70 Wonderful retro-Sixties decor and a peaceful location overlooking a leafy square make this trendy Belgisches Viertel bar a winner.
8 Haus Töller Weyerstr. 96 0221/258 93 16 Lovely, long-established Brauhaus close to Barbarossaplatz, nothing like as touristy as the Altstadt haunts but with plenty of atmosphere; there's draught Päffgen Kölsch to drink and Rhineland specialities such as Sauerbraten to eat. Opening time: Closed Sun
9 HoteLux Rathenauplatz 22 Mad, vibrant and tiny Soviet-themed vodka bar with lurid red decor, Polish and Russian vodkas and "Soviet" cocktails. Opening time: Open until 3am Sat & Sun
10 Pegel Köln Brüsseler Str. 10. Stripped-down, rather industrial-feeling DJ bar in the Belgisches Viertel, Opening time: Closed Sun.
11 Peters Brauhaus Mühlengasse 1 0221/257 39 50 Big yet surprisingly cosy and intimate Altstadt Brauhaus, serving a bewilderingly large choice of Cologne delicacies to anchor down the eponymous Kölsch.
12 Salon Schmitz Aachener Str. 28 0221/139 55 77 Elegantly decorated Belgisches Viertel bar that attracts a good looking, trendy thirty-something crowd. There's food available from the beautiful former butcher's shop next door.
13 Stadt Venlo Venloer Str. 29 The 1960s decor makes this quirky Belgisches Viertel DJ bar a real period piece, yet it's extremely hip, attracting a studenty crowd and playing an offbeat selection of music, including New Wave and Reggae.
14 Sünner im Walfisch Salzgasse 13 0221/257 78 79 Matjes herrings and Brauhaus classics soak up the beer in the classy setting of this gabled medieval house, moved to its present site in 1935.
15 Turista Süd Severinstr. 3 Amiable, low-key Spanish tapas bar in the Severinsviertel.
16 Weinstube Bacchus Rathenauplatz 17 0221/21 79 86 Charmingly unpretentious neighbourhood Weinstube, with a pretty terrace at the front, a good selection of German and international wines, and locals playing board games inside. They also serve food. Opening time: Eve only