Germany Guide
Munich
Eating
1 Alter Simpl Türkenstr. 57 Lovely wood-panelled café-bar whose name derives from the famous satirical magazine Simplicissimus, many of whose writers or cartoonists were once regulars here. Affordable food includes salads, pasta and meat mains, most under €10; the kitchen is open until well after midnight, though as the evening wears on it becomes more bar-like.
2 Augustiner am Dom Frauenplatz 8 
089/23 23 84 80 Hearty dishes of roast duck with red cabbage or Bratwürste with Sauerkraut are washed down with Augustiner beers, all at moderate prices, right opposite the Frauenkirche.
3 Café Frischhut- das Schmalznudel Prälat-Zistl-Str. 8 089/26 82 37 A Munich legend for its heavy, doughnut-like Schmalznudeln, this little café near the Viktualienmarkt is equally beloved by early risers and night owls heading home. Opening time: Daily 7am–6pm
4 Café Luitpold Brienner Str. 11 089/242 87 50. Munich is rather thin on grand old Kaffee und Kuchen places, but the Luitpold – where Thomas Mann and Henrik Ibsen were once customers – is one of the better offerings, though it has long since lost its former architectural glory, at least internally.
5 Café Münchner Freiheit Münchner Freiheit 20 089/33 00 79 90 Spacious Schwabing café/Konditorei on several floors, with good-value breakfasts, omelettes, focaccia sandwiches and a few hot Italian dishes, as well as the inevitable tempting cakes. Opening time: Daily from 6.30am
6 
Café Puck Türkenstr. 33 089/280 22 80 Relaxed, vaguely Art Deco café with jazzy music, leather sofas and an eclectic selection of affordable eats, from falafel to pasta and Schnitzel. The breakfast selection is massive. Opening time: Daily from 9am
7 Cohen's Theresienstr. 31 089/280 95 45 Family-run place in the Maxvorstadt serving up traditional Eastern European Jewish cooking, including Königsberger Klopse, Pirogi and Wienerschnitzel.
8 Il Grappolo Adalbertstr. 28 089/39 62 41 Amiable little Italian vinoteca with affordable pasta dishes plus more substantial ones like osso bucco and swordfish. Informal but pleasant, and popular with academics from the nearby university. Opening time: Closed Sun.
9 Lenbach Ottostr. 6 089/549 13 00 Fashionable, Conran-designed, Gault Millau-garlanded and something of a celebrity haunt, yet the prices for Lenbach's creative cooking are surprisingly reasonable, with main courses from around €20.
10 Morizz Klenzestr. 432
089/201 67 76 Searingly authentic Thai dishes are on the menu at this smart restaurant and cocktail bar in the Gärtnerplatzviertel, which attracts a mixed crowd. Opening time: Open until 3am Fri & Sat, otherwise 2am
11 Osteria Italiana Schellingstr. 62 089/272 07 17 Italian food like mamma used to make in lovely, traditional surroundings at this very long established restaurant – it was here in the 1930s that Unity Mitford stalked Hitler over lunch. Main courses around €20.
12 Ratskeller Marienplatz 8 089/219 98 90 The labyrinthine cellar of the Neues Rathaus is always full – by no means just with tourists. Serving everything from Bratwurst with Sauerkraut to elegant seasonal dishes including game, the food is hearty and good. Main courses from around €12.50; there's also a Weinstube in the complex.
13 Restaurant Dallmayr Dienerstr. 14–15 089/213 51 00 This is the restaurant of Munich's celebrated Dallmayr delicatessen: the quality of the produce is unsurprisingly superb, while the creativity of the cooking has helped it win a Michelin star. Main courses à la carte are around €40 and up; there's also a cheaper, but still classy, café/bistro. Closed Sun & Mon.
14 Saf In Zerwirk, Ledererstr. 3 089/23 23 91 95 Hyper-trendy vegan restaurant where the food is cooked at low temperatures to preserve nutrients; it has a sister restaurant in London. Opening time: Closed Sun
15 Schuhbecks in den Südtiroler Stuben Platzl 6–8 089/216 69 00 One of Munich's gastronomic temples: proprietor Alfons Schuhbeck is a TV chef and national celebrity, who fuses Bavarian and more cosmopolitan influences and makes use of seasonal produce; the wine list runs to four hundred varieties, and the setting is conservative but elegant. Set menus start at €78 for three courses. The more informal and cheaper – but beautiful – Orlando next door is run by the same team.
16 Seven Fish Gärtnerplatz 6 089/23 00 02 19 Stylish, modern wine-bar and fish restaurant, with creative dishes like catfish with Sauerkraut and blood-sausage cannelloni from around €23, or you can eat cold appetizers tapas-style from the bar.
17 Spatenhaus an der Oper Residenzstr. 12 089/290 70 60 The elegantly alpine decor matches the refined Bavarian cooking at this restaurant opposite the opera. Main courses in the informal downstairs restaurant range from €9 to €20; expect to pay a little more in the classier upstairs dining room.
18 Stadtcafé in the Stadtmuseum St-Jakobs-Platz 089/26 69 49 Buzzy café serving good breakfasts and delectable cakes; there's a beer garden in the Stadtmuseum's Hof in summer.
19 Tantris Johann-Fichte-Str. 7 089/361 95 90 Munich's most renowned restaurant is the place where Bavarians were first introduced to nouvelle cuisine. Classic 1970s decor and an up-to-the minute gourmet menu: the four-course Saturday lunch costs €105, after which things start getting seriously expensive. Opening time: Closed Sun & Mon