France Guide
The Rhône valley
Romans-sur-Isère
Despite its bustle, ROMANS-SUR-ISÈRE, south of Hauterives and 15km east of the Rhône at Tain, isn't the most exciting of towns. The main attraction is a fascinating museum specializing in the town's principal and most-established industry: shoemaking. The Musée International de la Chaussure is in the former Convent of the Visitation at 2 rue Ste-Marthe (Jan– April & Oct– Dec Tues– Sat 10am–5pm; May, June & Sept Tues– Sat 10am–6pm; July & Aug Mon– Sat 10am–6pm; €4.50, or joint ticket with Palais Idéal at Hauterives, , €7;
04.75.05.51.81) and also includes a permanent exhibition on the Resistance. Your toes will curl in horror at the extent to which women have been immobilized by their footwear from ancient times to the present on every continent, while at the same time you can't help but admire the craziness of some of the creations. If inspired to replenish your own shoe stock, drop in to the Charles Jourdan factory shop at 1boulevard Voltaire or the large shopping outlet, Marques Avenue, along avenue Gambetta.
The old town is pleasant enough, peppered with the inevitable shoe shops as well as establishments offering Roman's two other specialities – this time gastronomic: pogne, a ringed spongy bread flavoured with orange water, and ravioles, cornflour-based ravioli with an eggy, cheesy, buttery filling.
Hotels include the lovely
L'Oree du Parc (
04.75.70.26.12,
www.hotel-oreeparc.com ; Price: €81-100) at 6 avenue Gambetta, a short walk from the main town. Housed in a 1920s mansion, the stylish rooms are immaculate and restful, and there's an inviting pool and terrace in the leafy back garden. A cheaper alternative is the decent Cendrillon on place Carnot by the station (
04.75.02.83.77,
www.hotelcendrillon.com ; Price: €41-50). The municipal campsite, Les Chasses (
04.75.72.35.27; €7 for two people and a tent; open April– Oct), is 1km off the N92 northeast of the city, next to the aerodrome.
Agreeable places to eat include Le Chevet de St-Barnard (
04.75.05.04.78; closed Sun evening. Tues evening. Wed & mid-July to Aug) on pretty little place aux Herbes, next to the cathedral; traditional ravioles here are €11. La Cassolette (
04.75.02.55.71; closed Sun & Mon) at 16 rue Rebatte, just off place Jacquemart, also serves delicious ravioles (€8) in a beautiful old stone house. Along with cafés/bar around place Charles de Gaulle, a popular place to have a drink is the daytime only Comptoir des Loges on 76 rue Nicolas (
04.75.45.40.92; closed Mon), which also does inexpensive meals.