France Guide
The Pyrenees
Villefranche-de-Conflent
A medieval garrison town suffering from arrested development, VILLEFRANCHE-DE-CONFLENT, 6km up the Têt from Prades and a similar distance below Vernet-les-Bains, is today a tourist trap of the first order. Founded in 1092 by the counts of Cerdagne to block incursions from rivals in Roussillon, then remodelled by Vauban in the seventeenth century after annexation by France, its streets and fortifications have remained untouched by subsequent events, aside from becoming one giant, uninterrupted tchatchka stall. Worth a look is St-Jacques church, with a primitively carved thirteenth-century baptismal font just inside the door; you can also walk the perimeter of the walls (daily: Feb– May & Oct– Dec 10.30am–12.30pm & 2–5/6pm; June– Sept 10am–8pm; closed Jan; €4.50). If you do, you'll see why in 1681 Vauban constructed the Château-Fort Libéria on the heights above town to protect it from "aerial" bombardment. Getting up there (daily: June & Sept 9am–7pm; July– Aug 9am–8pm; Oct– May 10am–5/6pm; €6) involves taking the free minibus or jeep leaving from near the town's main gate; you can return to Villefranche by descending a subterranean stairway of a thousand steps, emerging at the end of rue St-Pierre.
The best-value local restaurant, in the old town at 31 rue St-Jean, is La Casa de la Nine (most of year Wed– Sat pm & Sun lunch; menus €28–41), English-run but well respected by locals.
Villefranche is the terminus for main-line trains from Perpignan. From here up to La Tour-de-Carol on the Spanish frontier, transport is by SNCF bus, or – far nicer – the narrow-gauge, year-round Petit Train Jaune, which climbs along the Têt at a cyclist's pace allowing proximity to the scenery, especially in summer when some of the carriages are open-air ( 
04.68.96.56.62, 
www.trainstouristiques-ter.com ). The summertime frequency of the trains makes it practical to hop off and on, allowing you to explore the areas around smaller, isolated stations, many of them haltes facultatifs (ask to be set down).