France Guide
The Pyrenees
Céret
The first tempting stop on the D115, the main road which follows the Tech valley inland all the way up to the Spanish border just past Prats-de-Mollo, is CÉRET, capital of the Vallespir region, served like the rest of the valley by regular buses from Perpignan. It's a delightful place, with a wonderfully shady old town overhung by huge plane trees; central streets are narrow and winding, opening onto small squares like the Plaça de Nou Reigs ("Nine Spouts" in Catalan), named after a currently missing central fountain; on avenue d'Espagne, two remnants of the medieval walls, the Porte de France and Porte d'Espagne, are visible. Céret is also known for cherries from surrounding orchards (June festival), plus July corridas (bullfights) and Pamplona-style running of bulls. Other annual events include the Easter Sunday procession of the Resurrected Christ, and an international sardana jamboree in July.
Céret's main sight, however, is the remarkable Musée d'Art Moderne (June 15– Sept 15 daily 10am–7pm; Feb 16 to Sept daily 10am–6pm; Oct– Feb 15 same hours; closed Tues; 
www.musee-ceret.com ; €8), at 8 boulevard Maréchal-Joffre. Between about 1910 and 1935, Céret's charms – coupled with the residence here of the Catalan artist and sculptor Manolo – drew a number of avant-garde artists to the town, including Matisse and Picasso, who personally dedicated a number of pictures to the museum. The holdings are too extensive to mount everything at once, but works on show should include canvases by Chagall, Miró, Pignon and Dufy, among others. Permanently displayed Picassos include a marvellous series of ceramic bowls illustrating bullfighting scenes, executed over just five days in April 1953. The upper floor has worthwhile temporary exhibits.
There's no better accommodation than friendly 
Hôtel Vidal at 4 place Soutine ( 
04.68.87.00.85; closed Nov; Price: €41-50), a tastefully converted episcopal palace with variable-sized but salubrious en-suite rooms. Full-service restaurant options aren't abundant but include the Vidal's very own El Bisbe (closed Tues & Wed low season), with gourmet if sparing menus at €31; Pizzeria Quattrocento (shut Tues) on Plaça de Nou Reigs; and Côte Jardin at 12 rue St-Ferréol down from the museum, with a €16 lunch menu.