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France Guide

The Pyrenees

Eating and drinking

    1 Auberge du Cheval Blanc 68 rue Bourg-Neuf, Petit Bayonne, 05.59.59.01.33 Seafood-strong, formerly Michelin-starred, and considered the best in town. weekday lunch menu is offered, but assume €90 expenditure; booking essential. Opening time: Closed part July, all Sun evening & Mon except Aug.

    2 Author Pick Bar du Marché 39 rue des Basques, Grand Bayonne Despite the name, this begins serving food and drink – including good beer on tap – at 5am to market sellers and continues with good-value plats du jour at lunchtime. The decor is accented by posters for Basque-country beverages, and the San Fermín bull-running at Pamplona. Opening time: Closed all evenings & all Sun.

    3 Le Bistrot d'Huîtres Southeast corner of the halle One of three such oyster bars based in the market, with a good-value €19 formule.

    4 Le Chistera 42 rue Port-Neuf, Grand Bayonne Doyenne of a row of three similar eateries under the arcades here, offering gazpacho, fish soup, merlu-based dishes, a few meat platters and good home-made desserts; best order à la carte (allow €27) and/or off the daily specials board rather than the dull menu. Opening time: Closed Mon, part May, and Tues & Wed evenings except July & Aug

    5 Chocolat Cazenave 19 rue du Port-Neuf, Grand Bayonne The local chocolate tradition is duly honoured with a handful of chocalateries on, or just off this street. This, the most famous one, serves hot whipped chocolate and cold cocoa-based desserts at tables under the arcade or in its Art Nouveau interior. Opening time: Closed Sun