France Guide
The north
Reims
Laid flat by the shells of World War I, REIMS (pronounced like a nasal "Rance", and traditionally spelled Rheims in English) was rebuilt afterwards with tact and touches of Art Nouveau and Art Deco, but consequently lacks any great sense of antiquity. It makes up for this with a walkable centre, beneath which lies its real treasure – kilometre upon kilometre of bottles of fermenting champagne. Its status as champagne capital of the world aside, Reims possesses one of the most impressive Gothic cathedrals in France – formerly the coronation church of dynasties of French monarchs going back to Clovis, first king of the Franks, and later painted obsessively by Monet. These attractions, plus a handful of interesting museums and a big city buzz unusual in this part of France, make it worth a day or two's stopover.
Champagne houses
1 Taittinger 9 place St-Niçaise 
03.26.85.84.33 
www.taittinger.com Starts with a film show before a guided stroll through the ancient cellars, some of which have doodles and carvings added by more recent workers; there are also statues of St Vincent and St Jean, patron saints respectively of vignerons and cellar hands. Opening time: Mid-March to mid-Nov daily 9.30am–1pm & 2–5.30pm (last tour at 4.30); mid-Nov to mid-March Mon-Fri same hours; closed Sat & Sun; tour 1hrPrice: €10
2 Lanson 66 rue de Courlancy 03.26.78.50.17 www.lanson.fr Worth the trip across the river because the in-depth tours here actually bring you into the factory, and demonstrate the mechanized process of champagne making. Most days you'll see the machines degorging the bottles, as well as labelling and filling them in preparation for the second fermentation. A refreshing change from those houses that just talk about the process and show their cellars. Opening time: Mon– Fri only.Closed AugPrice: €8
3 G.H.Martel & Co 17 rue des Créneaux, near the Basilique St-Remi 03.26.82.70.67 www.champagnemartel.com At €8, this is a good-value tour, with a dégustation of three champagnes as well as a film show and guided visit. Opening time: Open daily year round (10am–7pm, but last tour at 5.30.
4 Mumm 34 rue du Champ-de-Mars 03.26.49.59.70 www.mumm.com Known by its red– slashed Cordon Rouge label, Mumm's un-French-sounding name is the legacy of its founders, affluent German wine-makers from the Rhine Valley who established the business in 1827. The tour is guided and includes a short film. It all ends with a generous glass of either Cordon Rouge, the populist choice; the sweeter Cordon Vert; or their Extra Dry. Opening time: March– Oct daily 9–11am & 2–5pm; Nov– Feb by appointment onlyPrice: €8
5 Pommery 5 place du Général-Gouraud 03.26.61.62.55 www.pommery.fr The creator of the cute one-eighth size "Pop" bottles has excavated Roman quarries for its cellars – it claims to have been the first maison to do so. Opening time: April to mid-Nov daily 9.30am–7pm; mid-Nov to March 10am–6pmPrice: From €10
6 Ruinart 4 rue des Crayères 03.26.77.51.51 www.ruinart.com The fanciest of the champagne houses, in a swanky mansion. Reserved and upmarket, the tours are nonetheless informative.
7 Veuve Clicquot-Ponsardin 1 place des Droits-de-l'Homme 03.26.89.53.90 www.veuve-cliquot.com In 1805 the widowed Mme Clicquot not only took over her husband's business – veuve means "widow" in French – but also later bequeathed it to her business manager rather than to her children, a radical break with tradition. The maison is one of the least pompous, and its caves some of the most spectacular, sited in ancient Gallo– Roman quarries, with high vaulted ceilings. Tours last 1hr 30min with tasting. Opening time: 10am–6pm (last tour at 4.15pm); April– Oct Mon– Sat; Nov– Mar Mon– FriPrice: €8.50