France Guide
The north
Restaurants and cafés
1 Alcide 5 rue Débris St-Étienne 
03.20.12.06.95 A Lillois institution, an upmarket brasserie tucked down a narrow alleyway near the Grand'Place. Reliable, hearty fare (flamiche, fish, crêpes à la cassonade) and home-made ice creams served in a wood-panelled dining room. Menus from €19. Open daily, closed Sunday evening.
2 Café aux Arts 1 place du Concert. Good old-fashioned café with wicker chairs on its terrace, in an unbeatable vantage point over the market.
3 Brasserie de la Paix 25 place Rihour 03.20.54.70.41 Sumptuous brasserie, unrelated to its namesake hotel, specializing in mussels and seafood. Menus from €18. Closed Sun.
4 La Cave aux Fioles 39 rue de Gand 03.20.55.18.43 The jazz– related decor is backed by the music and mellow ambience. Food ranges from classics and Flemish specials to more adventurous fare. Menus from €19 or plats from €16. Closed Sat lunch, Sun & Mon.
5 Le Compostelle 4 rue St-Étienne 03.28.38.08.30 In a much renovated Knights Templar Renaissance palace, this airy restaurant with indoor trees offers refined versions of traditional French specialities, including vegetarian options. Menus from €29.
6 Crêperie bis 4 rue Débris St-Étienne 03.20.42.12.16 Stylish modern crêperie with a good choice of sweet and savoury pancakes plus tartines & salads; plats around €11. There's another branch on rue de Gand.
7 Domaine de Lintillac 43 rue de Gand 03.20.06.53.51 Unpretentious, old-fashioned French cuisine specializing in foie gras, cassoulet and other produits du terroir from the owner's farm (the produits can also be purchased). Mains from €9.50. Closed lunch Sun– Wed.
8 
A l'Huîtrière 3 rue des Chats-Bossus 03.20.55.43.41 A wonderful shop (worth a visit just to look and the mosaics and stained glass) with an expensive, chandelier-hung restaurant at the back – acclaimed as Lille's best – specializing in fish and oysters at €30-plus a dish; there's an impressive €105 menu. Closed Sun evening.
9 Méert 25–27 rue Esquermoise 03.20.57.07.44 Decorated with mirrors and chandeliers, this is Lille's most famous (and expensive) salon de thé specializing in gaufres as well as excellent cakes and teas. Closed Mon.
10 Aux Moules 34 rue de Béthune 03.20.57.12.46 The best place to eat mussels; it's been serving them since 1930 in its Art Deco-style interior. Nothing costs much over €12, including the other brasserie fare, and it's all excellent value. Daily noon–11pm (until 12 on Sat); closed Sun evening.
11 Paul place du Théâtre, corner of rue Faidherbe Paul is an institution in Lille; though it's now becoming a bit of a chain, it started here with the boulangerie, patisserie and salon de thé all under one roof.
12 La Source 13 rue du Plat 03.20.57.53.07 Vegetarian restaurant and healthfood store, best at lunchtime. From €9.
13 T'Rijsel 25 rue de Gand 03.20.15.01.59 Traditional Flemish estaminet, serving the whole gamut of regional dishes and over 40 beers. Plats from €10. Closed Sun & Mon.