France Guide
The north
The cathedral
Opening time: Daily: April– Sept 8.30am–6.30pm; Oct– March8.30am–5.30pm
The Cathédrale Notre-Dame dominates the city by sheer size – it's the biggest Gothic building in France – but its appeal lies mainly in its unusual uniformity of style. Begun in 1220 under architect Robert de Luzarches, it was effectively finished by 1269, and so the building escaped the influence of succeeding architectural fads that marred the "purity" of some of its more leisurely built sisters. A laser scrub, used on the west front, has revealed traces of the original polychrome exterior, in stark contrast to its sombre, grey modern appearance. An evening light show (daily: June 15 to June 30 10.45pm, July 10.30pm, Aug 10pm, Sept 9.45pm, Dec 1 to Jan 1 7pm; free) gives a vivid idea of how the west front would have looked when coloured, with music added to create atmosphere, and an explanation of the various statues on the facade first in French and then in English. By way of contrast, the interior is all vertical lines and no fuss: a light, calm and unaffected space. Ruskin thought the apse "not only the best, but the very first thing done perfectly in its manner by northern Christendom". The later embellishments, like the sixteenth-century choir stalls, are works of breathtaking virtuosity. The same goes for the sculpted panels depicting the life of St Firmin, Amiens' first bishop, on the right side of the choir screen. The choir itself can be visited at 3.30pm daily but is otherwise locked. Those with strong legs can mount the cathedral's front towers (April– June & Sept Mon & Wed– Fri at 3pm & 4.30pm, weekends 2.30–5.15pm; July– August daily except Tues & Sun 11am, daily except Tues 2.30–5.15pm; Oct– March Mon & Wed– Sat at 3.45pm; €4.50). One of the most atmospheric ways of seeing the cathedral is to attend a Sunday morning Mass (10am or 10.30am, depending on time of year), when there's sublime Gregorian chanting.