France Guide
The Massif Central
The Gorges du Tarn
Jampacked with tourists in July and August, but absolutely spectacular nonetheless, the Gorges du Tarn cuts through the limestone plateaux of the Causse de Sauveterre and the Causse Méjean in a precipitous trench 400–500m deep and 1000–1500m wide. Its sides, cloaked with woods of feathery pine and spiked with pinnacles of eroded rock, are often sheer and always very steep, creating within them a microclimate in sharp distinction to the inhospitable plateaux above. The permanent population is tiny, though there's plenty of evidence of more populous times in abandoned houses and once-cultivated terraces. Because of the press of people and the subsequent overpricing of accommodation, the best bet, if you want to stay along the gorge, is to head up onto the Causse Méjean, where there are several small family-run hotels and chambres d'hôte, among which is the attractively sited Auberge de la Cascade in St-Chély-du-Tarn ( 
04.66.48.52.82, 
www.aubergecascade.com ; Price: €51-65; closed Nov– March; menu for €34).
Also eminently worth seeing are two beautiful caves about 25km up the Jonte from Le Rozier. Aven Armand (daily: mid-March to June & Sept– Oct 10am– noon, 1.30–5pm; July & Aug 10am–6pm; €8.50), on the edge of the Causse Méjean, which is fitted with a funicular, claims the world's tallest stalagmite towering 30m above the cave floor. The Grotte de Dargilan (daily: April– June & Sept 10am– noon & 2–5.30pm; July & Aug 10am–6.30pm; Oct 10am– noon & 2–4.30pm; €8.50), on the south side of the river on the edge of the Causse Noir, known as the "pink cave" from the colour of its rock, is known as one of the country's most beautiful stalactite caverns. HYELZAS, near the Aven Armand cave, has a gîte, Du Four à Pain ( 04.66.45.61.64, monsite.orange.fr/gitedufourapain ; Price: €41-50).