France Guide
The Massif Central
The Puy de Dôme
Visiting Clermont without going to the top of the Puy de Dôme (1464m) would be like visiting Athens without seeing the Acropolis. And if you choose your moment – early in the morning or late in the evening – you can easily avoid the worst of the crowds.
Clearly signposted from place de Jaude, it's about 15km from the city centre by the D941. The last 6.5km is a private road (March, April, Oct & Nov 8am– sunset; May– Sept 7am– sunset); there is also a shuttle bus (10am–6pm: May– June & Sept Sat & Sun; July– Aug daily; €4.20) serving the route when the road is closed to vehicles. If you're driving, make sure to pump your brakes on the descent; otherwise you may find yourself waiting for a long time before driving off, while your brakes cool down. Alternatively, you can leave the car at the Col de Ceyssat and climb the Puy on foot in about an hour. The route is reserved for cyclists in summer (May– Sept Wed & Sun 7–9am).
The result of a volcanic explosion about 10,000 years ago, the Puy is an abrupt 400m from base to summit. Although the weather station buildings and enormous television mast are pretty ugly close up, the staggering views and sense of airy elevation more than compensate. Even if Mont Blanc itself is not always visible way to the east – it can be if conditions are favourable – you can see huge distances, all down the Massif Central to the Cantal mountains. Above all, you get a bird's-eye view of the other volcanic summits to the north and south, largely forested since the nineteenth century and including the perfect one hundred-metre-deep grassy crater of the Puy de Pariou.