France Guide
The Côte d'Azur
Restaurants
1 Chantecler and La Rotonde Hôtel Negresco, 37 promenade des Anglais 
04.93.16.64.00 Opening time: Closed Mon, Tues & Jan 6 to Feb 7Chantecler is the best restaurant in Nice, seriously expensive à la carte, but chef Bruno Turbot provides a lunchtime menu, including wine and coffee, for €55, which will give you a good idea of how sublime Niçois food is at its best. At La Rotonde you can taste less fancy but still mouthwatering dishes on the €34 menu.
2 Chez René Socca 2 rue Miralhéti, off rue Pairolière Opening time: Closed Mon & JanThe cheapest meal in town: you can buy helpings of socca, pissaladière, stuffed peppers, pasta or calamares at the counter and eat with your fingers; the bar opposite serves the drinks.
3 Don Camillo Créations 5 rue des Ponchettes 04.93.85.67.95 Opening time: Closed Sun & MonPrice: €40 menuElegant modern restaurant with contemporary Niçois/Italian cooking.
4 
L'Escalinada 22 rue Pairolière 04.93.62.11.71 Opening time: Daily; closed mid-Nov to mid-DecPrice: €24 menuGood Niçois specialities – pissaladière to start, then you help yourself to chickpea salad from a huge pot. The location is pretty, at the foot of a stepped side street.
5 L'Estrilha 13 rue de l'Abbaye 04.93.62.62.00 Opening time: Closed MonReservations essential in summer for this popular restaurant that serves bourride, civet de lapin and daube niçoise.
6 La Mérenda 4 rue Raoul Bosio Opening time: Closed Sat & SunPrice: Around €30.Courgette fritters, tripe à la niçoise and the like from Dominic le Stanc, former chef at Chantecler. À la carte only. No phone, no smoking, no credit cards.
7 Mets and Café 28 rue Assalit 04.93.80.30.85 Opening time: Closed SunPrice: €10.50 menuBusy budget brasserie close to many of the backpacker hostels, with no shortage of custom.
8 Pasta Basta 18 rue de la Préfecture 04.93.80.03.57 Price: From around €7 Excellent fresh pasta and sauce – the choice is bewildering – and they hand you the block of parmesan to grate yourself. Inexpensive pizza and bruschetta too.
9 Café de Turin 5 place Garibaldi 04.93.62.29.52 Price: Plateaux de fruits de mer from €20Queues around the block for the spectacular seafood at this restaurant on the edge of Vieux Nice. There are seafood stalls in the street outside should you get tired of waiting.
10 La Zucca Magica 4bis quai Papacino 04.93.56.25.27 Opening time: Closed Sun & MonPrice: Around €29Long-established, homely Italian vegetarian restaurant on the port, with a sound reputation but a tendency to overdo the cheese.