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France Guide

Corsica

Restaurants

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    1 Author Pick Le 20123 2 rue Roi-de-Rome 04.95.21.50.05 www.20123.fr Opening time: Closed Mon, except in July & AugDecked out like a small hill village, complete with fontaine and parked Vespa, the decor here's a lot more frivolous than the food: serious Corsican gastronomy featured on a single €34 menu. Top-notch cooking, and organic AOC wine.

    2 Altru Versu 2 rue Jean-Baptiste Marcaggi 04.95.50.05.22 Opening time: Closed SunClassy Corsican speciality place hosted by one of the island's top young chefs. The menu's a mouthwatering array of traditional fare given a gourmet twist: seabass soufflé with brocciu and fresh mint, chestnut tagliatelle. À la carte only (count on €45–50 per head, plus wine). Live Corsican music on Fri & Sat.

    3 Ariadne rte des Sanguinaires, near Barbicaja campsite 04.95.52.09.63 Opening time: Easter– Oct Tues– SunThe oldest and most cheerful of Ajaccio's many beachside paillotes, with a terrace opening straight on to the sand. World cuisine dominates the menu and there's usually live music (salsa/reggae/soukous) from 8.30pm. Most main courses €17–27. You can get there from place de Gaulle on bus #5.

    4 Le Bilboq ("Chez Jean-Jean") av des Glacis, just off place Foch 04.95.51.35.40 The eponymous patron (a former fisherman and boxer) of this legendary seafood joint is Ajaccio's undisputed "lobster king", and there's no point in coming here to eat anything but local langouste, served grilled with spaghetti. You can dine al fresco on a narrow alley terrace, or inside, regailed by Tino Rossi music (which, unlike the lobster, is definitely an acquired taste). Count on €32 per head for three courses, plus wine.

    5 Da Mamma passage Guinghetta 04.95.21.39.44 Tucked away down a narrow passageway connecting cours Napoléon and rue Cardinal-Fesch. Authentic but affordable Corsican cuisine – such as cannelloni al brocciu, roast kid and seafood – on set menus from €14 to €29 served in a stone-walled dining room or under a rubber tree in a tiny courtyard.

    6 Le Spago 1bis, Rue Emmanuel Arene 04.95.21.15.71 Thanks largely to its idiosyncratic designer decor, this funky little lounge restaurant has become one of Ajaccio's hippest places to eat. Techno DJs and local bands frequently enliven meals, and the modern Corsican is reasonably priced. Try their tasty raclette, or Bonifacien-style baked aubergine; and leave room for one of the tempting desserts. Most mains around €20.