France Guide
Brittany
Belle-Île
The island of BELLE-ÎLE, 45 minutes by ferry from Quiberon, has its own Côte Sauvage on its Atlantic coast, while the landward side is fertile, cultivated ground, interrupted by deep estuaries with tiny ports. At different times in its turbulent history the island belonged to the monks of Redon, the English – who in 1761 swapped it for Menorca – and Lorient's Companie des Indes.
The island is far too large to stroll round, but a coastal footpath runs on bare soil for the length of the Côte Sauvage. To appreciate the island's contrasts, some form of transport is advisable – you can rent bikes at the port and main town of LE PALAIS, and if you're in a (small) car the ferry fare is relatively low.
Near the west end you'll find the Grotte de l'Apothicairerie, so called because it was once full of cormorants' nests, arranged like the jars on a pharmacist's shelves. Inland, on the D25 back towards Le Palais, you pass the two menhirs, Jean and Jeanne, said to be lovers petrified as punishment for wanting to meet before their marriage. Another larger menhir used to lie near these two; it was broken up to help construct the road that separates them.
If you're staying any length of time, Belle-Île's second town, SAUZON, a beautiful little village arrayed along one side of a long estuary, or inland town of Bangor present less touristy places to base yourself.