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England Guide

Oxfordshire, the Chilterns and the Cotswolds

Cheltenham

Until the eighteenth century CHELTENHAM was like any other Cotswold town, but then the discovery of a spring in 1716 transformed it into Britain's most popular spa. During Cheltenham's heyday, a century or so later, the royal, the rich and the famous descended in droves to take the waters, which were said to cure anything from constipation to worms. These days, the town has a lively, bustling atmosphere, lots of good restaurants and some of England's best-preserved Regency architecture, particularly along the majestic Promenade. It is also a thriving arts centre, famous for its festivals of folk (Feb), jazz (April/May), science (June), classicalmusic (July) and literature (April & Oct) – see www.cheltenhamfestivals.co.uk – and, of course, the races.

The domed Pump Room (Mon & Wed– Sun 10am–4pm) in the Pittville district is a lovely Classical structure with an imposing colonnaded facade. It is now used as a concert hall, but you can still sample the spa waters from the marble fountain in the main auditorium for free – and very pungent they are too.

Cheltenham races

Address: 10min walk from Pittville Park at the foot of Cleeve Hill

Telephone: 01242/513 014

Website: www.cheltenham.co.uk

Cheltenham racecourse is Britain's main steeplechasing venue. The principal event of the season, the three-day National Hunt Festival in March, attracts forty thousand people a day and must be booked in advance. Other meetings take place in January, April, October, November and December. For the cheapest but arguably the best view, pay £8 (rising to £15 during the Festival, £25 on Gold Cup Day) for entry to the Best Mate Enclosure, as the pen in the middle is known.

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