Czech Republic Guide
South Moravia
Luhačovice
The genteel spa town of LUHAČOVICE appears decidedly lush after the rather demure Morava valley but without the pomp and majesty of the west Bohemian spas. Although its springs are mentioned as far back as the twelfth century, nothing much was done about developing the place until it was bought up in 1902 and building began on the first of Slovak Dušan Jurkovič's quirky, folksy, half-timbered villas, which have become the spa's hallmark.
The largest of these, the Dům Dušana Jurkoviče (now a hotel), dominates the central spa gardens spreading northeast from the train station. The beams are purely decorative, occasionally breaking out into a swirling flourish, and the roof is a playful pagoda-type affair, creating a uniquely Slovak folk version of Art Nouveau. The blot on Luhačovice's copybook is the Kolonáda, a graceless curving concrete colonnade that's nevertheless a good place to sit and the world go by. The rest of the spa forms a snake-like promenade boxed in by shrubs and trees, with folksy bridges spanning the gently trickling river. Soon enough you hit another cluster of Jurkovič buildings, one of which is the open-air natural spring swimming pool. The villas continue into the leafy suburbs, but unless you fancy a hike into the surrounding woods or are staying at the lakeside campsite (May– Oct) 1km up the main road, there's no reason to continue walking. If you're interested in the folk traditions of the area, and the history of the spa, hop across to the west bank of the stream to the museum in the vila Lipová (April– Oct Tues– Sun 9am– noon & 1–5pm; Nov & March Thurs 9am– noon & 1–4pm; 30Kč).
Although Luhacovice lies at the end of a branch line from Uherský Brod, getting here from Moravia's major cities by rail involves several changes. A handful of direct buses run from Brno to Luhačovice, and there are several more connections via Zlín or Uherské Hradiště. The bus and train stations are at the southwestern end of the spa, ten-minutes' walk from the centre, where, at Masarykova 950, there's an efficient tourist office (Mon– Fri: March– May & Oct 8am–5pm; June– Sept 8am–6pm; Nov– Feb 8am–4pm; 
www.luhacovice.cz ). Reasonable accommodation can be found all over the spa, but call ahead at least a day in advance. The pension-style Hotel Lužná ( 
577 131 112, www.hotelluzna.cz ; Price: 1001-1500Kč) lies just south of the spa proper on Solné. Between the centre and the spa, on pedestrianized Dr. Veselého, is the simple but tidy Hotel Vltava ( 577 131 376; Price: 501-1000Kč). If you're heading into Slovakia, the scenic train journey from Uherský Brod through the White Carpathians to Trenčianska Teplá is as good a way as any to get there.