Czech Republic Guide
North Moravia
Holy Trinity Column
The polygonal Holy Trinity Column (Sousoší nejsvětější Trojice) was erected in the first half of the eighteenth century to the west of the radnice, its ornamental urns sprouting dramatic gilded flames. The largest plague column in the Czech Republic, it's big enough to be a chapel and in some ways acts like one: inside you'll find a nun telling the stories of the saints featured on the outside (daily 9am– noon). Set into the west facade of the square is the Moravské divadlo, a Neoclassical theatre where the young Gustav Mahler arrived as the newly appointed Kapellmeister in 1883. The local press took an instant dislike to him: according to his own words, "from the moment I crossed the threshold . . . I felt like a man who is awaiting the judgement of God". No doubt there was a strong element of kneejerk anti-Semitism in his hostile reception, but this was not helped by Mahler's autocratic style, which caused a number of the local prima donnas to live up to their name. He lasted just three months.