Czech Republic Guide
East Bohemia
The Krkonoše
The Krkonoše (Giant Mountains), the highest mountains in Bohemia, formed part of the historical northeastern border of its ancient kingdom. TThe mountains' beauty ensured an early tourist trade, and, for resorts like Špindlerův Mlýn and Pec pod Sněžkou, tourism remains the sole industry. Despite being one of the few protected national parks in the country, the Krkonoše suffered considerably from acid rain in the decades up to the 1990s.
In the last two decades, however, the condition of the mountains has improved remarkably. While in summer you can't avoid the relics of barren hillsides and ashen tree trunks, if you stay in the largely unspoiled valley, or come in winter when the snow obscures much of the damage, it's possible to remain oblivious.
Getting around
Buses are the quickest way to get around, with plenty of fast connections to Prague and throughout east Bohemia. Trains can get you as far as Harrachov, Vrchlabí and Trutnov, though these connections can be awkward. There are also numerous chairlifts that operate even in summer. However, hiking is undoubtedly the best way of getting around, since each valley is basically a long, winding dead end for motor vehicles, with pretty hefty parking fees (and sometimes queues) aimed at dissuading drivers from bringing their vehicles into the park. There are now three 24-hour border crossings into Poland: Harrachov– Jakuszyce, Královec– Lubawka and Pomezní Boudy– Przeľěcz Okraj. More convenient for walkers are four additional tourist border crossings on the ridge itself (daily: April– Sept 8am–8pm; Oct– March 9am–4pm), only accessible on foot.
Hiking
For those intent on serious hiking, a detailed map of the mountains, showing the network of colour-coded marked paths, is essential. Warm clothing is also important, no matter what the season – the summits are battered by wind almost every day, and have an average annual temperature of around freezing. Persistent mist – around for about 300 days in the year – makes sticking to the marked paths a must. In winter, most of the high-level paths are closed, and recently, even in summer, several have been closed to give the mountains a rest. To find out the latest details, head for the tourist information offices in any of the resorts. Keep in mind, too, that you will hardly be alone on the trails, as the mountains are immensely popular among Czechs, Poles and Germans.
Skiing
The Krkonoše is also the most popular region in the Czech Republic for skiing, since it receives by far the longest and most reliable snowfall in the country. Pec pod Sněžkou is the largest resort, followed by Špindlerův Mlýn and Harrachov. Queues for lifts everywhere can be long and slow, but are more than compensated for by the cheapness of the ski passes and accommodation – although these have risen to levels formidable to the average Czech. Lift tickets cost upwards of 600Kč per day, and ski rental is easily had for around 250Kč per day. In summer, numerous outlets in each resort offer mountain bike rental – ask at the tourist office for the cycling map.