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Czech Republic Guide

East Bohemia

The Adršpach rocks

    ADRŠPACH (Adersbach) train station (one stop on from Horní Adršpach) lies at the northern extremity of the rock system, though you can't really miss it, since some of the rocks have crept right up to the station itself. There are two entrances close to each other (open roughly till dusk; 60Kč), and a nearby kiosk with the tourist office (Mon– Fri 7–11.30am & noon–3pm; www.skalyadrspach.cz ). Once through the perimeter fence, the outside world recedes and you're surrounded by new sensations – sand underfoot, the scent of pine, boulders and shady trees. Most of the sandstone rocks are dangerous to climb without the correct equipment and experience, so you'll probably have to content yourself with strolling and gawping at the formations best described by their nicknames: Babiččina lenoška (Grandmother's Armchair), Španělská stěna (Spanish Wall) and the ironic Trpaslík (Dwarf).

    The green-marked path winds its way along and over a stream, through narrow clefts between the rocks, eventually bringing you to a couple of waterfalls (vodopády). From here, steps hewn out of the rock lead up to the Adršpašské jezírko, a lake trapped above ground level between the rocks, where jovial boatmen pole you along in rafts a short distance to the other side. If you fancy a swim or a spot of nude bathing, head for the Pískovna lake to the east of the Adršpach entrance, with its dramatic backdrop of craggy rocks and pine trees. The Hotel Lesní zátiší ( 491 586 202; Price: 1001-1500Kč), by the entrance to the rocks, offers decent rooms and food. More comfortable is the Pension Adršpach ( 491 586 102, www.adrspach-skaly.cz ; Price: 1001-1500Kč), on the road to Teplice nad Metují, which also has a restaurant.