Czech Republic Guide
Central Bohemia
Český Šternberk
The village of ČESKÝ ŠTERNBERK is overlooked by the great castellated mass of its hrad (April & Oct Sat & Sun 9am–5pm; May & Sept Tues– Sun 9am–5pm; June– Aug Tues– Sun 9am–6pm; 85Kč, 150Kč for a 50min guided tour in English; 
www.hradceskysternberk.cz ), strung out along a knife's edge above the river. It's a breathtaking sight, rising out of thick woods, though not much remains of the original Gothic castle, headquarters of the powerful Šternberk family, who have refurbished it beautifully. The highlight of the guided tour is the Italian stuccowork that survives from the seventeenth century. Even if you don't take the tour, it's worth popping your head into the main courtyard, where there's usually a display of birds of prey, one of Count Šternberk's chief interests. Fifteen-minutes' walk through the woods behind the castle, there's a lookout tower (rozhledna) with great views over the hrad and valley.
If you're coming by train, get out at Český Šternberk zastávka, one stop beyond Český Šternberk's main station. The fur-strewn Hradní restaurace provides cheap, hot Czech food; if you need to stay, head for the smart and vast Parkhotel ( 
317 855 168, www.parkhoteldt.cz ; Price: 1001-1500Kč), near the station, with spectacular views over to the castle.