Belgium Guide
The Ardennes
Belgium's southern reaches are a striking contrast to the crowded, industrial north, for it's here in the south that the cities give way to the rugged, wilderness landscapes of the Ardennes. Beginning in France, the Ardennes stretches east across Luxembourg and Belgium before continuing on into Germany. The highest part, lying in the German-speaking east of the country, is the Hautes Fagnes (the High Fens), an expanse of windswept heathland. But this is not the Ardennes' most attractive or popular corner, which lies farther west, its limits roughly marked by La Roche-en-Ardenne and Bouillon. This region is given character and variety by its river valleys: deep, wooded, winding canyons, at times inspiringly beautiful.
The obvious gateway to the most scenic portion of the Ardennes is Namur, strategically sited at the junction of the Sambre and Meuse rivers, and well worth a visit in its own right. The town's pride and joy is its massive, mostly nineteenth-century citadel – once one of the mightiest fortresses in Europe – but it also musters a handful of decent museums and great restaurants. Heading east into the heart of the Ardennes, there's workaday Han-sur-Lesse, surrounded by undulating hills riddled with caves and St-Hubert, with its splendid Italianate basilica. The most charming of all the towns hereabouts, however, is Bouillon, a picturesque little place whose narrow streets trail alongside the River Semois beneath an ancient castle. In terms of good looks, its closest rival is La Roche-en-Ardenne to the northeast, a rustic, hardy kind of town, pushed in tight against the River Ourthe beneath wooded hills, and renowned for its smoked ham and game.
If you're visiting the eastern Ardennes, the handiest starting point is big and gritty Liège, an industrial sprawl from where it's a short hop south to the historic resort of Spa – the perfect spot to take the waters – and the picturesque town of Stavelot, with its marvellous carnival. You can use Spa or Stavelot as a base for hiking or canoeing into the surrounding countryside and to venture into the Hautes Fagnes.
Highlights
1 Trésor du Prieuré d'Oignies, Namur Exquisitely crafted, jewel-encrusted metalwork from the thirteenth century is on show here.
2 Bouillon's Château The best preserved medieval castle in the whole of the country.
3 Rochehaut Delightful little place perched high above the River Semois, with some smashing places to stay.
4 La Roche-en-Ardenne Picture-postcard Ardennes resort; an ideal spot for some walking, camping and canoeing.
5 Kayaking on the River Lesse Amble along the river by canoe or kayak, surrounding by handsome countryside.
6 Les Thermes de Spa Pure relaxation in the mineral-rich waters of Spa – be sure to try the delightfully retro copper baths.
7 Stavelot's Carnival One of Belgium's most flamboyant; watch out for the Blancs Moussis, with their white hoods and long red noses.
8 Hautes Fagnes Windy moorland and forest, Belgium's highest terrain with genuinely wild walking.