Guatemala Guide
The western highlands
Zunil
Deep in the valley is ZUNILa centre for vegetable growing. The village is split in two by the need to preserve the best land. The plaza is dominated by a beautiful white colonial church with twin belfries and a magnificent Baroque facade – complete with a Buddha-like figure, a quetzal and vines. Inside an intricate silver altar is protected behind bars. The women of Zunil wear vivid purple huipiles and carry incredibly bright shawls, and during the Monday market the plaza is awash with colour. Just below the plaza is a textile cooperative (Mon– Sat 8.30am–5pm, Sun 2–5pm), where hundreds of women market their beautiful weavings; lessons are also offered here. Zunil is also renowned for its adherence to the cult of San Simón (or Maximón), the evil saint. In the face of disapproval from the Catholic Church, the Maya are reluctant to display their Judas, who also goes by the name Alvarado, but his image is usually paraded through the streets during Holy Week, dressed in Western clothes and smoking a cigar.