Guatemala Guide
The western highlands
Zaculeu
A few kilometres to the west of Huehuetenango are the ruins of ZACULEU, capital of the Mam, who were one of the principal pre-conquest highland tribes. The site (daily 8am–6pm; US$6.50) includes several large temples, plazas and a ball court, but unfortunately it was restored pretty unsubtly by a latter-day colonial power, the United Fruit Company, in 1946 and 1947. The walls and surfaces were levelled off with a layer of thick white plaster, leaving them stark and undecorated. There are no roof-combs, carvings or stucco mouldings, and only in a few places does the original stonework show through. Even so, the site has a peculiar atmosphere of its own and is worth a look; surrounded by trees and neatly mown grass, with fantastic views of the mountains, it's also an excellent spot for a picnic.
Excavations at the site have unearthed hundreds of burials carried out in an unusual variety of ways; bodies were crammed into great urns, interred in vaults and even cremated. These burials, along with artefacts found at the site, including pyrite plaques and carved jade, have suggested links with Nebaj. There's a small museum on site (daily 8am– noon & 2–6pm) with examples of some of the burial techniques used and some interesting ceramics found during excavation.
To get to Zaculeu from Huehuetenango, take one of the buses to the "ruinas" that leave every thirty minutes from 7 Avenida between 2 and 3 calles.