Guatemala Guide
The western highlands
Santa Cruz del Quiché
The capital of the department of El Quiché, SANTA CRUZ DEL QUICHÉ lies half an hour north of Chichicastenango. A good paved road connects the two towns, running through pine forests and ravines, and past the Laguna Lemoa, a lake which, according to local legend, was originally filled with tears wept by the wives of K'iche' kings after their husbands had been slaughtered by the Spanish. Quiché, as it is usually called, is a featureless place, but serves as the jumping-off point for the nearby ruins of Utatlán. It's also a transport hub for the Ixil Triangle.
Dominating the central plaza of Santa Cruz del Quiché is a large colonial church and clock tower built with stone from the ruins of Utatlán. Market days are the same as in Chichicastenango – Thursday and Sunday – with stalls sprawling south and east of the plaza down to the bus station. Palm weaving is a local speciality, and Maya people can sometimes be seen threading a band or two as they walk through town.
The bus terminal, a large, grubby open-aired affair, is about four blocks south and a couple east of the central plaza. Connections are generally good from Quiché.
There's a limited range of hotels in Quiché and nothing luxurious. The best budget place is the Hotel San Pascual, at 7 Calle 0–43, Zona 1 ( 
7755 1107; Price: $8-12), with clean rooms on two floors around a patio while Hotel Maya Quiché, a block west of the plaza at 3 Avenida 4–19, Zona 1 ( 7755 1464; Price: $13-20), is a step up in quality with spacious rooms, some with bathroom. Most places to eat are close to the plaza. El Torito Steakhouse, 7 Calle 1–73, just southwest of the plaza, with kitsch cowboy decor and a meat-based menu that includes huge steaks is as posh as it gets in Quiché, or for typical comedor food head to Las Rosas, 1 Avenida 1–28.