Guatemala Guide
The western highlands
Santa Cruz La Laguna
Gorgeous SANTA CRUZ LA LAGUNA, stretching for about two kilometres in a verdant ribbon along the lakeshore, is a supremely tranquil and beautiful village. With some terrific accommodation, spa facilities, yoga and excellent hiking, it's not surprising its star is on the rise, as more and more people discover the settlement's unspoilt appeal. Above all, it's the (almost) complete lack of roads that really makes this place – just one little lane snakes up to the Maya village high above the lakeshore, and the only access is by boat. With no traffic to contend with, the lake really comes into its own, and it's very easy to be seduced by the mellow pace of life, strolling the lakeshore paths, and watching hummingbirds buzz between exotic flowers or Maya boatmen fish for crabs. You really can get back to nature here.
The lakeshore itself has been mainly bought up by foreigners and wealthy Guatemalans, while the Maya village is on a shelf 150m or so above the water. The contrast between the two worlds is sharp, with the indigenous population of around six thousand living in rudimentary conditions while by the shore things are very different. Nevertheless, the two communities coexist well, with many villagers employed in foreign businesses, and the charity Amigos de Santa Cruz ( 
www.amigosdesantacruz.org ) does sterling work improving opportunities for the local Maya by funding environmental, educational and health programmes; volunteers are always welcome.
There isn't much to actually see in Santa Cruz, though you could take a look around the Maya village where there's a sixteenth-century church. Most people spend their time chilling out with a book or swimming. The lake water is cleaner away from the centre, towards the bay of Paxanax, one kilometre to the east. Alternatively, there's some excellent hiking, including a walk to a waterfall above the village football pitch, and another to Sololá along a spectacular path. Staff at the Iguana Perdida will be able to get you on the right track for these walks.