Guatemala Guide
The western highlands
Fuentes Georginas
In the hills above Zunil is Fuentes Georginas, a spectacular natural spring spa on the evergreen slopes of Volcán Pico Zunil. The pools (US$2.50) here are surrounded by fresh green ferns, thick moss and lush forest, and to top it all there's a restaurant (meals US$3–8) with a well-stocked bar. Unfortunately the eco-vibe is spoiled sometimes by cheesy piped music, but otherwise the steaming pools are heavenly, and just large enough for a few swimming strokes. Facilities include changing rooms and barbecue and picnic areas. Stone bungalows are also available ( 
7765 4442; Price: $21-30), complete with bathtub, two double beds and fireplace (wood is provided); they're a little musty but have a certain rustic charm.
The journey to the pools – up a road which switchbacks through magnificent volcanic scenery – is also exhilarating. The easiest way to get here is to hop on the chicken bus operated by Adrenalina Tours (US$6 return), which travels between their office in Xela and the pools twice daily, except Mondays. Otherwise pick-ups also leave the plaza in Zunil and cost US$7 per trip, no matter how many passengers there are; it's another US$7 for the return ride.
Buses to Cantel and Zunil run from Quetzaltenango's Minerva bus terminal every thirty minutes or so, though you can also catch a bus from the centre of town beside the Shell gas station at 10 Calle and 9 Avenida in Zona 1. The last bus back from Zunil leaves at 6pm. All buses to the coastal town of Retalhuleu also pass through this way.
Just a kilometre beyond Zunil is one of Guatemala's most enjoyable places to stay, the spa hotel Las Cumbres ( 7767 1746; Price: $31–60), perched on the side of a steep slope with tremendous views across the valley to the forested foothills of the Volcán Pico Zunil. It's a tremendously well run hotel, with a dozen or so spotlessly clean rooms, all with chunky wooden beds and fireplaces, and most complete with huge bathtubs fed by hot spring water and private saunas (room nos. 6–9 enjoy the best views). There's also a great restaurant with tasty comida típica (US$5–9 a meal), a small gym and squash court. No alcohol is served and smoking is not permitted. If you just want a steam and a soak, seven great sauna rooms (US$4 per hour) can be used by visitors.