Guatemala Guide
The Verapaces
Semuc Champey
The region's prime attraction and one of the most beautiful natural destinations in Guatemala is Semuc Champey (US$6; parking US$1), a shallow staircase of sublime turquoise pools suspended on a natural limestone bridge. This idyllic place, 10km south of the village of Lanquín, sits at the base of a towering jungle-clad valley and makes a wonderful spot for a blissful day's wallowing and swimming, though watch out for the odd sharp edge. Just a few years ago very few visitors made it to this remote part of Guatemala, but the secret is now most definitely out, and the pools are very much a key stop on the backpacking trail between Tikal and the western highlands. That said, you can usually find a peaceful spot without too much difficulty.
If you walk a few hundred metres upstream via a slippery path you come to the river source that feeds Semuc: the fast-flowing Río Cahabón, the bulk of which plunges into a cavern, cutting under the pools in an aquatic frenzy before emerging again downstream. For a photo-perfect view of the whole scene, you can hike (and climb a little in sections) for thirty minutes up a slippery, vertiginous trail to a mirador high above the pools.
Don't leave your belongings unattended as the odd theft has been reported.Connections have improved greatly in recent years, and there are now direct public minibuses running between Cobán and Semuc (five daily 5.45am, 7.30am, 8.30am, 11am & noon; 2hr 30min); the last bus returns from Semuc at 4.30pm. In addition there are hourly minibuses (2hr) connecting Cobán and Lanquín; the last leaves Lanquín at 5pm. For the short hop between Lanquín and Semuc, there's a daily public minibus from the plaza at 9am, which returns at 4pm.