Guatemala Guide
The Verapaces
Salamá
SALAMÁ has a relaxed and prosperous air, and like many of the places out this way, its population is largely ladino. There's not much to do outside of fiesta time (Sept 17–21) other than browse the Sunday market, although it's worth checking out the crumbling colonial bridge, now used only by pedestrians, on the edge of town, and the old church, the gilt of its huge altars darkened by age. The best of the hotels is the modern, efficiently run Hotel Real Legendario, 8 Avenida 3–57 ( 
7940 1751; Price: $21-30), with a little café and very clean rooms, all with private bath, comfy beds and cable TV. Hotel Tezulutlán, just south of the plaza ( 7940 1643; Price: $13-20), is a reasonable colonial-style alternative, though the rooms could be cleaner. For budget digs Pensión Juárez, at the end of 5 Calle ( 7940 1114; Price: $8–20), is a good bet with plenty of rooms, some with bathroom. For eating, try one of the places around the plaza: El Ganadero is the best restaurant, while Deli-Donus and Café Central both score for coffee and snacks. Banrural, opposite the church, has an ATM and will cash dollars and traveller's cheques. Telgua, just east of the plaza, has internet access.
To really explore the region contact Eco-Verapaz, 8 Avendia 7–12, Zona 1 ( 7940 0146), who offer good mountain-biking, caving, hiking, horseriding and cultural trips throughout the department. Prices are around US$40 a day for most activities. Buses between Guatemala City and Salamá (3hr 15min) run half-hourly from 11 Avenida and 17 Calle, Zona 1, in the capital; many continue on to Rabinal (4hr) and Cubulco (4hr 30min). A steady stream of minibuses runs to San Jerónimo and to the La Cumbre junction, where there are connections with pullman buses running between Cobán and Guatemala City.