Guatemala Guide
The Verapaces
Reserva Sierra de las Minas
Deep in the highlands, the steep slopes on the eastern side of the highway form the foothills of the Sierra de las Minas, a mighty mountain range that soars to more than 3000m along a slender stretch of land between the Motagua and Polochic valleys. Forming one of Guatemala's largest expanses of cloudforest, this misty, thinly populated region harbours abundant wildlife including howler monkeys, white-tailed deer, coyotes and birds including the emerald toucan, hummingbirds and fairly plentiful numbers of quetzals.
Much of the area has been designated the Reserva Sierra de las Minas, which is not easy to get to independently. You first need to head for the village of San Rafael Chilascó, 12km east of the Guatemala City– Cobán highway via the turn-off at Km145, where you may have to wait a little while for a pick-up or bus. Once in San Rafael, ask for the ecotourism committee ( 
5301 8928, 
www.chilasco.net.ms ) who will organize accommodation, meals with local families and guides. Good-quality waterproofs and hiking boots are recommended. Trails lead to two spectacular waterfalls, El Saltó de Chilascó, which plunges 200m in two drop close to the entrance of the reserve, and the Laguneta falls, which drops an astounding 350m in stages. There are many rare orchids and a liquidambar forest to admire along the way.