Guatemala Guide
The Verapaces
El Calvario
Address: West of town on 1 Avenida, and right on 7 Avenida
One of Cobán's most intriguing sights is the church of El Calvario, which is very popular with indigenous worshippers and a short stroll from the plaza. Head west out of town on 1 Avenida and turn right up 7 Avenida until you reach a steep cobbled path. You'll pass a number of tiny shrines on the way up – crosses blackened by candle smoke and decorated with scattered offerings. The faithful stoop to pray at these altars asking for divine help: to cure ills, bring love or wealth or cast misfortune on enemies. There's a commanding view over the town from the whitewashed church itself, which has a distinctly pagan identity, including both Christian and Maya crosses; inside the church hundreds of corn cobs (sacred in indigenous religion) hang from the roof.