Guatemala Guide
The Verapaces
Biotopo del Quetzal
The Biotopo del Quetzal (daily 7am–4pm; US$3.50) is designed to protect the habitat of the endangered quetzal and covers a steep area of dense cloudforest, through which the Río Colorado cascades towards the valley floor, forming waterfalls and natural swimming pools. It's also known as the Mario Dary Reserve, in honour of an environmental campaigner who spent years campaigning for a cloudforest sanctuary to protect the quetzal, causing great problems for powerful timber companies in the process. He was murdered in 1988. An ecological foundation, Fundary, has been set up in his name to manage protected areas, including Punta de Manabique on the Caribbean coast.
Two paths through the undergrowth from the road complete a circuit that takes you up into the woods above the reserve headquarters. Quetzals are occasionally seen here but they're extremely elusive. The best time of year to visit is just before and just after the nesting season (between March & June), and the best time of day is sunrise. In general, the birds tend to spend the nights up in the high forest and float across the road as dawn breaks, to spend the days in the forest below, and they can be easily identified by their jerky, undulating flight. A good place to look out for them is at one of their favoured feeding trees, the broad-leaved aguacatillo, which produces a small avocado-like fruit. Whether or not you see a quetzal, the forest itself, usually damp with chipi-chipi, a perpetual mist, is worth a visit: a profusion of lichens, ferns, mosses, bromeliads and orchids spread out beneath a towering canopy of cypress, oak, walnut and pepper trees.
Buses from Cobán and Guatemala City pass the entrance (at Km161) every half-hour.
There are several places to stay, eat and drink within a few kilometres of the quetzal sanctuary. Coming from Guatemala City, the first place you reach is the upmarket rural lodge Hacienda Rio Escondido ( 
5208 1407; Price: $41-60) at Km144, which has lovely wooden cabañas, some with two bedrooms, and a restaurant with excellent grilled meats. Further north, Hotel Posada Montaña del Quetzal at Km156.5 ( 2332 4969 or 6620 0709, 
www.hposadaquetzal.com ; Price: $31–80) offers attractive stone and timber bungalows with fireplaces and spacious rooms with private bathrooms; many have great forest views and there's a restaurant, bar, swimming pool, walking trails and an orchid garden here. The next place is Ram Tzul, Km158.5 ( 5908 4066, 
ramtzul@internet.net.gt; Price: $31–60), where the bizarre glass-fronted restaurant is a blot on the landscape, but there are surprisingly attractive, tasteful rooms to the rear, many with great views of the Verapaz hills. Heading on towards Cobán, the Swiss-style Country Delight Inn ( 5514 0955; Price: $31–80), Km166.5, offers good rooms with bath and very attractive chalets (that sleep up to six) with fireplaces and full cooking facilities. The inn enjoys a pleasant meadow setting and there's ping pong, a kids' play area and a small pool. Even if you're just passing by, it's well worth sampling some of the inn's hearty, comida casero – try the delicious locally reared ham, or home-baked cakes.