Guatemala Guide
The Pacific coast
Takalik Abaj
The archeological site of Takalik Abaj (daily 7am–5pm; US$6.50, guide US$6.50), some 15km west of Retalhuleu, has cast fresh light on the development of early Maya civilization, particularly the influence of Olmec culture. The city presided over trade routes along the Pacific littoral, controlling the movement of jade, cacao and obsidian. An unlooted Maya royal grave was uncovered in 2002, and excavations are ongoing. You can only access the Olmec's urban centre, while the city's outskirts are spread over five coffee plantations. First settled around 1800 BC, early ceremonial buildings and monuments were executed in Olmec style between 800 and 400 BC, including the characteristic pot-bellied humans with swollen eyelids. But by the late Preclassic period, Maya-style carvings of standing rulers were beginning to replace Olmec art. Later in the Classic era some of the Maya World's most exquisite jade masks were created here – they now reside in Guatemala City's Museo Nacional de Arqueología y Etnología.
To get to Takalik Abaj, take a local bus from Reu to El Asintal, a small village 15km to the west, from where you can either hire a pick-up or walk the 4km to the site through coffee and cacao plantations. If you're driving, take the Astinal turn-off from the coastal highway.
There are two places to stay in rural locations nearby, both a couple of kilometres further north along the same minor road from El Astinal. The fine eco-resort, Takalik Maya Lodge ( 
2337 0037, 
www.takalik.com ; Price: $100 and above), is one of the best hotels along the Pacific slope, with stylish and attractive accommodation in two separate buildings, horseriding and birdwatching trips, guides for the ruins and a pool. It's managed with the local community as a kind of "fair trade" partnership. Close by, the San Isidro Piedra Parada also offers bed and breakfast (Price: $41-60) in an elegant main house. A tour of the finca, which employs eighty workers, is included; packages here can be arranged by Adrenalina Tours in Quetzaltenango.