Guatemala Guide
Petén
Yaxhá
Yaxhá (daily 8am–5pm; US$10.75), covering several square kilometres of a limestone ridge overlooking Laguna Yaxhá, is a highly compelling and rewarding Maya site to visit. This was the location for the Survivor Guatemala TV show. Its name means "green-blue water", a reference to the wonderful turquoise hue of the lake just below. Of all Guatemala's ruins, only Tikal and El Mirador (and possibly El Tintal) can trump the sheer scale and impact of this site, which has forty stelae, numerous altars, soaring temple pyramids and two ball courts. The dense jungle and lack of crowds only add to the special atmosphere of the place, and the wildlife is prolific (particularly howler monkeys and toucans).
Relatively little is known about the history of Yaxhá, partly due to a relative lack of inscriptions and also because substantial archeological excavations have only recently begun. North of Plaza D the ruins are mostly Preclassic, while the bulk of the large structures in the south of the city date from the Classic era. The sheer size of the city indicates that Yaxhá was undoubtedly an important force in the central Maya region during this era, its influence perhaps only contained by the proximity of the "superstate" Tikal, with which it shares several archeological similarities and close ties. For much of the Classic period, Yaxhá seemed locked in rivalry with the city of Naranjo, about 20km to the northeast, dominating its smaller neighbour for much of this time but suffering a heavy defeat in 799 AD when ruler Itzammnaaj K'awill of Naranjo defeated K'iinch Lakamtuun of Yaxhá. Restoration work is ongoing at Yaxhá, but most of the buildings have yet to be cleared and many are still choked in thick forest. The ruins are spread out over nine plazas, with around five hundred structures having been mapped so far.
The main Flores– Belize road passes 11km south of the clearly signposted turn-off for Yaxhá. If you're not on a tour, then it's possible to hitch from the main road as there is regular traffic to and from the village of La Máquina, 2km before the lakes. If you want to stay near Yaxhá, the wonderful, solar-powered Campamento El Sombrero ( 
7861 1687, 
www.ecosombrero.com ; Price: $21–40), on the south side of the lake, has nine good, thatched wooden cabañas (some with private bathroom), a campsite, restaurant, and superb library, and the Italian owner can arrange boat trips on the lagunas and horseriding. A trail from the hotel leads through the forest to other minor Maya ruins, past chultunes and ancient quarries. There's another campamento on the far side of the lake, below Yaxhá, where you can pitch a tent or sling a hammock beneath a thatched shelter for free.