Guatemala Guide
Petén
Finca Ixobel
Surrounded by pine forests in the cool foothills of the Maya Mountains, Finca Ixobel ( 
5410 4037, 
www.fincaixobel.com ) is a rural retreat and farm that's also a legendary travellers' meeting point. It was originally run by Americans Mike and Carole DeVine, but on June 8, 1990, Mike was murdered by the army, a crime that prompted the US government to suspend military aid to Guatemala. Five soldiers were convicted of the murder in September 1992, but the soldiers' commanding officer, Captain Hugo Contreras, escaped from jail shortly after his arrest. Carole fought the case for years and remains at the finca.
Finca Ixobel is a supremely beautiful and relaxing place where you can swim in the pond, walk in the forest, dodge the resident "attack" parrots and stuff yourself with delicious (mostly organic and home-grown) food. The finca is run ecologically, utilizing solar power and natural composting. You run a tab for accommodation, food (dinner costs US$3.50–8) and drink, paying when you leave – which can be a rude awakening. Many travellers are quickly seduced by the tranquil nature of the finca and end up staying much longer than planned, some working as cooks or helpers in exchange for board and lodging. There are hikes (a three-day jungle-trek hike costs US$30), horseriding trips, tubing, 4WD jungle jaunts, and short excursions to nearby caves. Accommodation is either in attractive bungalows with two beds and a private bathroom (Price: $21–40), rooms (Price: $13-20, with bathroom Price: $21-30), dorms (US$3.75 per bed), tree houses or the campsite (both US$3 per head). You'll also find internet and wi-fi access and a poolside bar. To get to the finca, ask the bus driver to drop you at the gate from where it's a fifteen-minute walk through the pine trees; after dark, take a taxi here from Poptún (US$3).