Guatemala Guide
East to the Caribbean
Lago de Izabal
The beautiful tropical area along the lush banks of the Lago de Izabaloffers plenty to keep you occupied for a few days amid a genuinely relaxed atmosphere. A road around the northern shore of the lake provides a route up to the Verapaces, passing the idyllic hot spring waterfall close to the Finca El Paraíso and the towering Boquerón canyon. On the western side of the lake, the small town of El Estor is a good alternative base to explore these sights and the biodiverse wetlands of the Reserva Bocas del Polochic, one of the richest wetland habitats in Guatemala. The green maze of swamp, marsh and forest harbours at least 224 different species of bird, including golden-fronted woodpecker, Aztec parakeet and keel-billed toucan. It's also rich in mammals, including howler monkeys, which you're virtually guaranteed to see (and hear), plus rarely encountered manatees and tapirs. There's good accommodation next to the tiny Q'eqchi' village of SELEMPÍM just outside the reserve – the large mosquito-screened wooden house with bunk beds (US$15 per head per day, including three substantial meals) provides villagers with employment. Locals also lead guided walks up into the foothills of the Sierra de las Minas and conduct kayak tours of the river delta.
The major drawback for visitors wanting to get to the reserve is that it's only accessible by infrequent public lanchas or expensive chartered boats. If you do want to go, drop by Defensores de la Naturaleza, at 5 Avenida and 2 Calle in El Estor ( 
7949 7427 or 5815 1736, 
www.defensores.org.gt ), who manage the reserve and can help with information. Three weekly public lanchas run to and from Selempím on Monday, Wednesday and Saturday, leaving Selempím at 7am and returning from El Estor at 11am (US$9; 1hr 15min) – check times at Defensores' office. Day-trips to the fringes of the reserve cost around US$50; ask Hugo or Oscar to recommend a local boatman. A special charter to Selempím costs around US$120 (return).