Guatemala Guide
Around Antigua
San Juan del Obispo
The small village of SAN JUAN DEL OBISPO is invisible from the road but marked by what must rank as the country's finest bus shelter, beautifully carved in local stone. The village itself is an attractive, quiet little place of cobbled streets with fine views of the great domes of Antigua. Its one outstanding sight is the Palacio de Francisco Marroquín, who was the first bishop of Guatemala. The place is currently home to a dozen or so nuns, and if you knock on the great wooden double doors one of them will give you a tour in Spanish (daily 9am– noon & 2–4pm; by donation). Marroquín arrived in Guatemala with Alvarado and is credited with having introduced Christianity to the Maya, as well as reminding the Spaniards about it from time to time. On the death of Alvarado's wife he assumed temporary responsibility for the government, and was instrumental in the construction of Antigua. He died in 1563, having spent his last days in the vast palace he'd built for himself here in San Juan. The palace interior, arranged around two courtyards, is spectacularly beautiful and several rooms still contain their original furniture, as well as a portrait of Marroquín himself. Excellent information panels (in Spanish and English) detail the life of the bishop, who many Guatemalans see as the first father of the nation and credit for introducing the concept of multiculturalism. Attached to the palace is a fantastic church and chapel with ornate wood carvings, plaster mouldings and austere religious paintings.
San Juan is also renowned for its chocolate production, which is something of a local cottage industry. Cacao beans are brought here from the coast, and turned into bars in several homes, including Doña Josefa's, 200m northeast of the palace – just look out for the "chocolate" sign. You're welcome to drop by and watch the process (mornings only) or buy a bar or two (from US$1.60) anytime; flavours include cinnamon and almond, though beware that local tastes are very sweet.
Hourly buses to San Juan leave from the market in Antigua (7am–6.30pm; 20min) or you can catch any bus heading for Santa María de Jesús, and it's a five-minute walk from the main road.