Cuba Guide
Varadero and Matanzas
Varadero
Expectations of Varadero vary wildly: some people anticipate a picture-perfect seaside paradise; some hope for a hedonistic party resort; while others dismiss it altogether, assuming it to be a synthetic, characterless place devoid of Cubans. All three of these perceptions are considerably wide of the mark, though there are reasons why such ideas about Varadero have developed. This is the package holiday resort in Cuba, and large chunks of land have been taken over by sprawling four- and five-star hotel complexes. Shooting out from the mainland, virtually the entire northern coastline of this slender, ruler-straight peninsula is a brilliant white-sand beach, generally regarded as Cuba's best. The blues and greens of the calm waters washing up on the beach fade in and out of one another, creating a stunning turquoise barrier between the land and the Florida Straits. To cap it off, because the peninsula rarely exceeds half a kilometre in width, the beach is never more than a ten-minute walk away.
Most people come to Varadero for the beach, a seemingly endless runway of uninterrupted blinding white sand. This is also the best place in Cuba for watersports, with three marinas on the peninsula, and several diving clubs. Each marina runs its own programme of fishing trips and boat trips. There are over thirty rewarding dive sites around Varadero – including a 40-metre-long boat sunk during World War II that now provides shelter for a variety of different fish – mostly amongst the islets scattered to the northwest about an hour's boat ride away. About 5km in the opposite direction from Varadero, heading southwest along the Matanzas coastline, is a two-kilometre stretch of coral reef inhabited by a busy population of parrotfish, trumpetfish and basslets amongst many others.
Boat trips
1 Boat Adventure Opening time: Daily 9am–4pmPrice: $39CUC per personA two-hour excursion on double-seater ski-bikes or two-man speedboats which stops off at a cay where crocodiles, iguanas and other creatures can be observed. There are a number of departures from Marina Chapelin.
2 Caribbean Cruise Price: $85CUC per personThis is the flattering name given to the seven- to eight-hour excursion to Cayo Blanco out of Marina Gaviota. It includes a snack, cocktail, time at the beach and lunch at Cayo Blanco as well as snorkelling (gear supplied). There's a minimum requirement of six people. Book at the marina or through the Coral.
3 Nautilus Price: $30CUC per personThis glass-bottomed boat leaves from the Marina Gaviota and explores the coral reef around Cayo Blanco. The comprehensive trip around Varadero lasts five hours and includes the dolphin show at Rancho Cangrejo. Contact any of the hotels in the Gaviota Group, such as the Coral or Villa Caleta, to book for the Nautilus, or ring the marina direct.
4 Seafari a Cayo Blanco Price: $75CUC for adults and $38CUC for children; private parties minimum total cost of $350CUCYou'll need to book in advance for this tour, which leaves Marina Chapelin on a daily basis. Most of the day is spent on a sailing yacht, and there's an open bar and lunch at Cayo Blanco in addition to musical entertainment, snorkelling opportunities and a dolphin show.
5 Seafari Crucero del Sol Price: $85CUC per personOne of the best offers available at the Marina Gaviota. It combines all of the best aspects of the other two cruises, but is on a fantastic catamaran and includes a ten-minute swim with dolphins.
6 Seafari Exclusivo Especial Price: $65CUC per person, or $75CUC with an open barOut of Marina Gaviota, this is a similar excursion to Caribbean Cruise with the same minimum number requirement but with the added bonus of a dolphin show at Rancho Cangrejo.
7 Varasub Price: $35CUC for adults, $20CUC for childrenThis glass-bottomed boat leaves from the Laguna de Paso Malo and heads out to the coral reef near Boca de Guamarioca west of Varadero, where you'll generally get 30–40 minutes' viewing time of the reef. Book through any of the information centres.
Fishing trips and the marinas
1 Marina Chapelin Autopista Sur Km 12
45/66-7550 & 66-7565
66-7093 Marina Chapelin's most exclusive offer is the Boat Adventure, conducted on two-man vessels. This is also the best marina for fishing trips, with packages costing $290CUC for a five-and-a-half-hour day-trip for one to four people and $30CUC for non-fishing passengers, including an on-board open bar. There's an information kiosk specifically for this marina at Ave. 1era y 59.
2 Marina Dársena Vía Blanca, 1km from the Varadero bridge
45/66-8060 ext. 661,
puerto@marlinv.var.cyt.cu This marina is not used for boat trips and is predominantly a docking station. However, they run fishing trips around northern Varadero, which can be comparatively good value, with prices per boat for a day trip starting at $240CUC; boats take up to four passengers.
3 Marina Gaviota Varadero At the eastern end of Autopista Sur, Punta Hicacos
45/66-7755 & 66-7756 The most remote of Varadero's three marinas. Fishing trips usually last from 9am to 3pm, with four hours of fishing at a total cost of $270CUC for up to four people, and $25CUC per extra person. There are two smart motorized yachts, both with an open bar on board. For another $15CUC they'll include a lobster lunch and an extra hour and a half's fishing. The marina also features a simple dockside restaurant, El Galeon, where you can choose your main seafood dish while it's still alive.
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