Cuba Guide
Varadero and Matanzas
Las Cuevas de Bellamar
Address: Just beyond the southeastern outskirts of Matanzas
In 1897 Samuel Hazard, an American writer and traveller, declared that anybody who hasn't seen Las Cuevas de Bellamar hasn't seen Cuba. Though the cave system to which he referred, does not really live up to such billing, if you're in the area for a day or two you should make time for it. The easiest way to get up here, if you don't have your own transport, is to catch the local Omnibus Yumurí from the Parque de la Libertad in the city. You can also catch a private taxi from the bus station in Matanzas, which shouldn't cost more than $3CUC. Alternatively, you can book a day-trip from Varadero through any of the travel agents there; Cubanacán, for example, offer a four-hour trip which takes in the caves and a tour of Matanzas for $25CUC. Guided tours of the caves set off once every hour, usually timed to begin with the arrival of tour groups. While it's possible to simply turn up and join a party, that gives you no guarantee of an English-speaking guide.
One of Cuba's longest-standing tourist attractions, the caves were first happened upon in 1861 – although there is some dispute over whether credit should go to a slave working in a limestone pit or a shepherd looking for his lost sheep – and today they attract coachloads of holidaymakers from Varadero. A small complex called Finca La Alcancía, which includes a restaurant serving basic traditional chicken and pork dishes (daily noon–8.30pm), as well as a shop and children's playground, has been built around the entrance to the caves. The most awe-inspiring sight is the first, huge gallery, abundant in stalagmites and stalactites. However, this does nothing to spoil the excitement of descending over 30m along 750m of narrowing and widening underground corridors and caverns lined with crystal formations on the walls and ceiling.