Cuba Guide
Santiago de Cuba
Drinking and nightlife
1 Artex Heredia no.304, e/ Calvario y Carniceria Opening time: Daily 9am– midnightBypass the inside bar (which smells of fried chicken) and head to the outside patio for live bolero, rumba, son and lively salsa. It's a good place to warm up before heading on to the Casa de la Trova further down the same road.
2 Bar Claqueta Santo Tomás e/ San Basilio y Heredia A small, welcoming open-air club with excellent, energetic live music from the two resident bands, Los Amantes del Son and Sonora Huracán.
3 El Baturro Aguilera esq. San Félix Opening time: Open till 1amThis pub-style bar, decorated with Spanish bullfighting memorabilia, hosts live bands playing Santana covers and other crowd-pleasers. Serving peso cocktails and dollar convertible-peso beers, this is a rough-and-ready venue which on some nights can feel a bit edgy.
4 Casa de la Cultura San Pedro, on Parque Céspedes Formerly a high-society club, this gracefully decaying venue is perfect for classic sounds. There's often a band playing on Sat, a fairly regular rumba night, occasional classical music performances and, on the first and third Sun of every month, a daytime show featuring a trova group.
5 Casa de la Música Corona no.564, e/ Aguilera y Enramadas Opening time: Daily 10pm–2.30amPrice: $5CUCSantiago's newest music venue, with the country's most popular bands regularly headlining. There's live music every night, with dancing and high-spirited jiniteras much in evidence.
6 Casa de los Estudiantes Heredia e/ San Pedro y San Félix Opening time: Traditional music shows on Mon, Wed and Fri mornings 9am–1pmPrice: $1CUCThis appealing building with a long balcony forms a centre for a hotchpotch of exuberant activity and entertainment. and occasional performances by Ballet Folklórico Cutumba, one of Cuba's most renowned traditional dance companies, and in residence here. Bands also play in the evening to a lively crowd – an even mix of Cubans and visitors, and there's a bar as well. It's an excellent venue to drink, dance and socialize.
7 Casa de Té Felix Peña esq Aguilera Pleasant teahouse overlooking the park. Serves a variety of brews, from camomile tea to hot chocolate.
8 Casa de las Tradiciones Rabí no.154 e/ Princesa y San Fernando A different trova band plays into the small hours every night, in a tiny, atmospheric house with walls lined with photographs and album sleeves.
9 
Casa de la Trova Heredia no.208 e/ San Pedro y San Félix Price: $2–5CUCA visit to the famous, pocket-sized Casa de la Trova is the highlight of a trip to Santiago, with musicians playing day and night to an audience packed into the tiny downstairs room or hanging in through the window. Upstairs is more expansive but just as atmospheric, and excellent bands play every evening. Although this venue attracts much tourist attention, it is still the top choice in town for hearing excellent music and a definite must-see on the Santiago circuit.
10 Casa del Caribe Calle 13 no.154 esq. 8, Reparto Vista Alegre 
22/64-3609 Opening time: Nightly 8pmThis Afro-Cuban cultural centre hosts ballet, Afro-Americano dance, folklorico, and traditional music every night at 8pm on a lovely patio. An informal atmosphere and enthusiastic performances make this worthy of the trip to the town outskirts.
11 Club 300 Aguilera no.300 e/ San Pedro y San Félix Opening time: Open till 3amSlick and sultry, Club 300 is a dark little hideaway with leather seats serving cheap cocktails, quality rum and single malt whiskies. It's busier when bands play – ask inside for details.
12 Coro Madrigalista Carnicería no.555 e/ Aguilera y Heredia Opening time: Practice session 9am– noon; peña 9pmThis homely venue, which feels much like a village hall, is home to Santiago's oldest choir whose repertoire includes classical, sacred and traditional Cuban music. You're welcome to pop in and listen to the morning practice session; the nightly peña features an assortment of local son and trova bands.
13 Discoteca La Irís Aguilera no.617 e/ Barnada y Plácido Price: $3CUCPitch-black and packed, this club plays a mix of merengue, soul, reggae, rock and salsa, all of it at top volume. The cover charge includes a free cocktail. Closed Tues.
14 Los Dos Abuelos Pérez Carbo 5, Plaza Marte Opening time: Nightly 10pm A variety of local groups play son and guaracha on this bar's pretty patio, shaded by fruit trees. There's an extensive range of rums and snacks available.
15 Folklorico Ikaché San Felix no.552 e/ Callejon de Carmen y Enramades A small music group, run by a flamboyant woman called Zenalda, give salsa classes ($7CUC an hour), have daily folklorico shows (between 4 and 7pm) and also perform Santería ceremonies in this small studio space.
16 Hotel Casa Granda Heredia no.201 e/ San Pedro y San Félix Opening time: Both bars are open all dayPrice: The rooftop bar charges $2CUC in the eveningsBenefiting from a cool breeze, the hotel's balcony bar is the best central spot to soak up the local atmosphere, and somewhere to linger given the comfortable seating and the troubadour trio that sometimes plays. Later on you should retire to the open-air rooftop bar, which has views over the bay and the surrounding countryside and is the best place from which to watch the sun slide down behind the mountains.
17 Patio de la Trova Heredia no.304 e/ Calvario y Carnicería Local groups play live traditional music every night in an attractive red-brick patio. You can relax and watch the show from the balcony above.
18 Pista Bailable Teatro Heredia, Ave. de las Américas s/n 22/64-3190 Pumped-up salsa, son, bolero and merengue tunes all get the crowd dancing at this unpretentious local club, with live music some nights.
19 Sala de Conciertos Esteban Salas Plaza Dolores Take a break from the salsa and son drums and refresh your soul with a choral or classical concert at this concert hall set in the former church on the corner of Plaza Dolores. Daytime concerts are given daily; ask inside for performance details.
20 UNEAC Heredia no.266 e/ San Felix y Carnecería Opening time: Tues– Sat 6pm– midnightTraditional and contemporary music peñas play here most nights. Check the door for the weekly programme.
21 Santiago Tropicana 1km northeast of the centre on the autopista 22/6-8700 Opening time: Twice-weeklyCabaret, with open-air spectaculars of bespangled dancers and variety acts