Cuba Guide
Pinar del Río
Cayo Jutías
Address: 60km north and west from Viñales
Price: $5CUC charge for foreign visitors at the tollbooth, 5 pesos for Cubans
Just off the north coast of this part of the province is Cayo Jutías, a secluded island hideout that's relatively untouched compared to most of the other tourist magnets in the region. Though it is now firmly on the organized excursion circuit, this little cay is one of the least commercialized beach resorts in western Cuba. Besides the road ploughing through the middle of the low-lying thicket covering most of the cay, the only signs of construction are a wooden restaurant at the start of the 3km of beach on the north side and an old metal lighthouse built in 1902. The beach itself is admittedly a little scrappy in places and rarely more than 3m wide, but this does nothing to spoil the place's edge-of-the-world appeal. And while this may be the best spot in Cuba to lie back and do absolutely nothing, you can engage in a few watersports while here. Eating at the restaurant, which is usually closed by 6pm, is more expensive compared to the options in Viñales, but the simple fish, shrimp, lobster and chicken main platters are still good value.
Getting here from Viñales, where most of the cay's visitors set out from, is surprisingly easy as the route is well marked. You will, however, need your own transport unless you pay for an organized excursion – Havanatur runs trips from Viñales for $23CUC per person, which includes lunch. When driving, follow the signposted road out of Viñales village to the Mogote Dos Hermanas until you reach the tiny village of Pons. After the posted right-hand turn here the road surface deteriorates as you twist and turn onto another village, Minas de Matahambre. From here head for Santa Lucía, following the signs to Cayo Jutías all the way, until you reach the causeway linking the cay to the mainland.