Cuba Guide
Pinar del Río
Despite its relative proximity to Havana, life in the province of Pinar del Río is a far cry from the noise, pollution and hustle of the capital. This is a distinctly rural region where the lazy towns and even the backwater capital city, also named Pinar del Río, are characterized by a markedly provincial feel. The major attractions are well away from the population centres, the majority situated in and around the green slopes of the Cordillera de Guaniguanico, the low mountain range that runs like a backbone down the length of the landscape. Famous for the world's finest tobacco (that most time-consuming of crops), stereotyped as a province populated by backward country folk, and butt of a string of national jokes, life here unfolds at a subdued pace, and its hillside and seaside resorts are well suited to unfettered escapism.
Hidden within the Sierra del Rosario, the relatively compact eastern section of the cordillera, the peaceful, self-contained mountain retreat of Las Terrazas provides perfect opportunities to explore the tree-clad hillsides and valleys.
But Pinar del Río's highlight is the Viñales valley, where the flat-topped mountains or mogotes, provide the landscape with a unique, prehistoric look and feel. While heavily visited, Viñales remains unspoilt and the village at its centre, full of simple houses renting rooms to tourists, has an uncontrived air about it. Easily visited on a day-trip from Havana, there is enough to see away from Viñales's official sights for a longer, more adventurous stay. Conveniently close to the valley is the secluded little beach on serene Cayo Jutías.
You'll need to be pretty determined in order to get to the country's westernmost locations, which are beyond the provincial capital, where the autopista ends, and more or less out of reach unless you rent a car or book an official excursion. But at María La Gorda, fine sandy shores, crystal-clear waters, outstanding scuba diving and a fantastic sense of out-of-reach tranquillity provide a justification for coming all this way.
Highlights
1 Baños de San Juan Perfect for picnics and great for a midday bathe, this delightful river haven in the hills also has a unique set of tree houses on stilts where you can stay the night.
2 Viñales Almost otherworldly in nature, the valley is like nowhere else in Cuba, from the mogote hills and prehistoric caves to the laid-back rural village on the valley floor.
3 Gran Caverna de Santo Tomás The most complex cave system in Cuba, plunging into a hillside on eight different levels, is surprisingly easy to visit.
4 Cayo Jutías The reputation of this virtually untouched islet is growing, so catch it at its natural best while you still can.
5 María La Gorda The western tip of Cuba may seem like a long way to go for a beach and some woods, but the serenity and world-class diving make it a worthwhile journey.
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