Cuba Guide
Havana
Paladares
1 Amistad de Lanzarote Amistad no.211 e/ Neptuno y San Miguel 
7/863-6172 Jumbo helpings of comida criolla where all the main dishes come with fried banana, arroz moro and salad and the chef has a penchant for covering things in breadcrumbs. The decoration is simple and has an unusually subtle feel.
2 Asahi Lealtad no.364 e/ San Miguel y San Rafael 7/878-7194 Buried in the thick of Centro Habana this simple, off-the-beaten-track, reliable front-room paladar has a thick photo-album menu full of all sorts of chicken, pork, fish and beef dishes, many of them covered in breadcrumbs, and all served up with healthy portions of congrí and enough tostones to double your weight. Attracts a local neighbourhood crowd as well as tourists staying at nearby casas particulares.
3 
La Guarida Concordia no.418 e/ Gervasio y Escobar 7/862-4940 or 866-9047 This unbeatable paladar is the only one in the city with an international reputation and worth every penny of its considerably higher prices. The meat and fish menu breaks with all the national norms, and the dishes – like rabbit lasagna, salmon in a spring onion sauce with bacon and sugar-cane tuna glazed with coconut – brim with flavour and originality. Set in the aged apartment building where the acclaimed Fresa y Chocolate was filmed, the decor is eye-catchingly eclectic and the moody ambience in the three characterful rooms perfect for a long-drawn-out meal. Reservations are essential and a meal here unmissable.
4 Torresson Malecón no.27 e/ Prado y Cárcel, Centro Habana 7/861-7476 Chicken, pork and fish dishes for average prices in a basic balcony spot overlooking the seafront with a good view of El Morro.