Costa Rica Guide
The Zona Sur
San Isidro
The spectacular descent into SAN ISIDRO DE EL GENERAL, just 702m above sea level, brings you halfway back into tropical climes after the chilly ride over Cerro de la Muerte. In Costa Rica, San Isidro is regarded as an increasingly attractive place to live, with its clean, country-town atmosphere. While the Talamancas are a non-volcanic range – and the Valle de El General therefore lacks the incredibly fertile soils of the Valle Central – there is still considerable local agricultural activity, and pineapples grow particularly well. The town hosts an agricultural fair in the first week in February on the Parque Central, when farmers don their finery, put their produce up for competition and sell fresh food in the streets. May is the month of San Isidro – patron saint of farmers and animals – and is celebrated by fiestas, ox-cart parades, dog shows and the erection of gaudy ferris wheels. The town's one museum, the Museo Regional del Sur (Tues– Sat 8am–4.30pm in theory), is 75m northwest of the modern church on the Parque Central's eastern side. The museum is devoted to the campesino history of the area and features occasional displays of local artwork.
San Isidro's main bus terminal is adjacent to the town's central market at Av 6, C 0/2, but most buses from here head to local destinations. To and from San José, TRACOPA buses stop right on the Interamericana at the corner of C 2, while MUSA buses pick up passengers across the road. The Banco Nacional on the main square changes traveller's cheques and has an ATM, as does the Banco de Costa Rica on Av 4, C 0. There are two Internet cafés on the main square (BTC Internet and Brunca Café Internet) and you'll find the correo on C 1, Av 6/8.
Of the budget choices in town, the best accommodation is at the large Chirripó, C 1, Av 2/4 ( 
771-0529; Price: Under $11), which has simple rooms with private bath and hot shower, a decent restaurant and free parking. The Hotel del Sur ( 771-3033, 
771-0527; Price: $31-50) is set in quiet, pleasant grounds about 6km southwest of San Isidro on the Interamericana and has en-suite rooms, tennis courts, a swimming pool and a good restaurant.
The fresh and amazingly varied local produce is put to good use, and San Isidro has several worthwhile places to eat. The best place for breakfast is the sidewalk café at the Hotel Chirripó, which serves gallo pinto and toast and eggs with excellent local coffee daily from 6.30am (and also offers well-kept rooms for $7/person). Almost next door is the Taquería Mexico Linda, a brightly decorated and cheerful little café with delicious Mexican food. For superb seafood, try Marisquería Marea Baja on C 2, Av 4/6 or put together your own meal at the bustling Mercado Central on C 2, Av 4/6.
Information about the Parque Nacional Chirripó and Parque Internacional La Amistad is available from the regional office of the national parks service (Mon– Fri 8am–4pm; 771-3155, 771-3297, 
acla-p@ns.minae.go.cr) at C 2, Av 4/6, south of the Parque Central. It's worth stopping off here to ask about current conditions and, if possible, to make reservations for Chirripó. On C 4, Av 1/3 are the offices of CIPROTUR ( 771-6096, 771-2003, 
www.ecotourism.co.cr ), a non-profit organization that promotes tourism in the Zona Sur. The helpful staff can book hotel rooms and answer queries and it's worth checking out their informative website before you set off.