Costa Rica Guide
The Zona Sur
Parque Internacional La Amistad
Created in 1982 as a biosphere reserve, the PARQUE INTERNACIONAL LA AMISTAD (daily 8am–3.45pm; $7) is a joint venture by the governments of Panamá and Costa Rica to protect the Talamancan mountain areas on both sides of their shared border. Amistad also encompasses several indigenous reserves, the most geographically isolated in the country, where Bribrí and Cabecar peoples are able to live with minimal interference from the Valle Central. It is the largest park in the country, covering 2070 square kilometres of Costa Rican territory.
In 1983 Amistad was designated a World Heritage Site, thanks to its immense scientific resources. The Central American isthmus is often described as being a crossroads or filter for the meeting of the North and South American eco-communities; the Amistad area is itself a "biological bridge" within the isthmus, where an extraordinary number of habitats, life zones, topographical features, soils, terrains and types of animal and plant life can be found. Its terrain, while mainly mountainous, is extremely varied on account of shifting altitudes, and ranges from wet tropical forest to high peaks where the temperature can drop below freezing at night. According to the classification system devised by L.R. Holdridge. Amistad has at least seven (some say eight or nine) life zones, along with six transition zones. Even more important is Amistad's function as the last bastion of some of the species most in danger of extinction in both Costa Rica and the isthmus. Within its boundaries roam the jaguar and the puma, the ocelot and the tapir. Along with Corcovado on the Península de Osa, Amistad may also be the last holdout of the harpy eagle, feared extinct in Costa Rica.
Too bad for keen natural historians and animal-spotters, then, that the terrain is so rugged, for there is only limited access to Amistad. Indeed, only serious and experienced walkers and hikers should consider it a destination. There are few rangers in relation to the size of the area, and getting lost and/or running out of water and food is potentially fatal. Drinking from the many streams and rivers is not recommended, due to the presence of the giardia bacterium.
If you are really serious about exploring La Amistad's limited (and often unmarked and uncleared) trails, contact the Fundación de Parques Nacionales office in San José in advance. They may be able to hook you up with a local guide who knows the area. The small hamlet of Altamira, 25km northeast of San Vito, functions as the park headquarters, with a puesto maintained by a full-time ranger who can provide information. You'll need a 4WD even to get here, whatever the season. From Altamira you can walk a demanding ten-kilometre-long trail, most of it uphill, to a flat ridge called Las Tablas, where it's possible to camp. Take water, tent and a three-season sleeping bag.
Near Las Tablas, bordering the park, La Amistad Eco-Lodge, 3km from the hamlet of Las Mellizas on the way to Sabalito ( 
228-8671, 
289-7858, 
www.laamistad.com ; Price: $76-100) has comfortable rustic rooms. It's on the Montero family farm, which also grows organic coffee and has a few kilometres of trails in its surrounding woods – the Monteros can provide transport if you ask in advance.