Costa Rica Guide
The Valle Central and the highlands
Zarcero
ZARCERO, 52km northwest of Alajuela on Hwy-141, sits at more than 1700 metres, almost at the highest point of this stretch of the Cordillera Central in an astounding landscape where precipitous inclines plunge into deep gorges, and contented Holstein cattle munch grass in the valleys. A pleasant mountain town, Zarcero has crisp fresh air and ruddy-faced inhabitants. Head for the central plaza for a different view of this small town. In front of a pretty white church stands a collection of fabulous, Doctor Seuss-like topiary sculptures – an elephant, a light bulb, a strange-looking bird, along with Gaudí-esque archways of vines and hedges, all the work of Costa Rican landscape gardener Evangelisto Blanco.
Discover the spectacular mountainous countryside around Zarcero with its verdant hills and valleys on a horse-riding tour run by Laguna Horseback Riding ($30 for 3–4hr; 
463-3959, 
www.cabinaslapradera.com ) at Cabinas la Pradera (Price: $21-30) in nearby Laguna. Zarcero is also famous for its organic produce as well as fresh, white, relatively bland cheese, called palmito (heart-of-palm, which is what it looks like). You can buy it from any of the shops near the bus stop on the south side of the central plaza.
Buses from San José to Zarcero leave every 30 minutes between 5am and 7.30pm from Av 7/9, C 12 (1hr 30min) and from La Coca-Cola at 9.15am, 12.15pm, 4.15pm and 5.15pm (1hr 30min), arriving in Zarcero on the northern side of the zócalo. The bus stop for San Carlos/Ciudad Quesada and the Zona Norte is on the northwest corner of the central plaza (hourly; 1hr). The small, friendly Hotel Don Beto ( 463-3137, www.hoteldonbeto.com ; Price: $31-50) is on the northern corner of Zarcero's main square. You'll find only a few places to eat, most near the central plaza. Restaurante El Higaron, and Pizzeria Galería serve decent, inexpensive local food. Banco de Costa Rica on Zarcero's main street changes traveller's cheques and has an ATM. Surprisingly, Zarcero also boasts a large, semi-Olympic swimming pool, Piscinas Apamar (450m uphill to the east of Parque Central; $2; 463-3674), along with thermal baths and a Jacuzzi.