Costa Rica Guide
The Valle Central and the highlands
Volcán Barva
Just beyond Barva, a turn-off on the right-hand side of the highway heads towards VOLCÁN BARVA. Although it's not far from Heredia, the volcano is difficult to reach due to the lack of public transport and a bad stretch of unpaved road just before the entrance – you'll need a 4WD even in the dry season. The park entrance fee is $7 and from here trails wind up the slope of this long-dormant volcano to a small, pristine crater.
The main trail (3km; about 1hr) begins from the puesto, ascending through dense deciduous cover, climbing to 3000m before reaching the cloudforest at the top. Along the way, you'll get panoramic views over the Valle Central and southeast to Volcán Irazú; if you're lucky – bring binoculars – you might see the elusive, jewel-coloured quetzal (though these nest-bound birds are usually only seen at their preferred altitude of 3600m or more). At the summit, you'll find the green-blue lake that fills the old crater, surrounded by dense forests that are often obscured in cloud. Take a compass, water and food, a sweater and rain gear, and leave early in the morning to enjoy the clearest views of the top. Be prepared for serious mud in the rainy season.
Buses (daily around 6.25am, 11.45am & 3.55pm) run from Heredia to the tiny hamlet of Sacramento, from where it's a three-kilometre walk up a steep track to the Barva puesto. Buses from Sacramento to Heredia leave at 7.30am, 1pm and (most conveniently) 5pm. On Sunday, buses leave Heredia at 6.30am, 11am & 4pm, returning from Sacramento at 7.30am, 12.30pm and 5pm. Otherwise, you'll need to get a taxi – ask in one of the restaurants mentioned below.
If you want to stay near the volcano, you'll find basic huts ($2 per night) and camping facilities (reserve in advance on 
283-5906) at the Barva puesto. The hamlet of Guacalillo, 8km south of the volcano, has surprisingly good accommodation. Relax in pretty cabinas with wall hangings and fireplaces at Hotel Las Ardillas ( 260-2172, 
ardillas@racsa.co.cr; Price: $51-75). Tuck into a healthy selection of soups and salads along with meat cooked over a coffee-wood fire at the on-site cosy restaurant and then pamper yourself at the tiled spa with mud treatments, massage and hypnotherapy ($20–50/hr).
In preparation for your climb, dine on típico food at the Campesino restaurant, about 3.5km north of Paso Llano en route to Volcán Barva, at the Sacramento another 500m further north, or at Soda El Bosque in Sacramento, a picturesque little café stuffed with junk-shop objects collected by its owner; they serve traditional gallos with various toppings, as well as breakfast and casados.