Costa Rica Guide
The Valle Central and the highlands
Rainforest Aerial Tram
The brainchild of American naturalist Donald Perry, the RAINFOREST AERIAL TRAM (Mon 9am–4pm, Tues– Sun 6.30am–4pm; $55), lies just beyond the northeastern boundary of Braulio Carrillo, 1.5km from the Guápiles Highway. Funded by private investors, and the product of many years' research, the tram was, when it opened in the mid-nineties, the first of its kind in the world. (There is now another one in Costa Rica near Jacó on the Pacific coast). Its premise is beautifully simple: twenty overhead cable cars, each holding five passengers and one guide, run slowly along the 1.7km aerial track skirting the tops of the forest and passing between trees, providing eye-level encounters along the way. The ride (45min each way; the entrance fee allows you unlimited rides) affords a rare glimpse of birds, animals and plants, including the epiphytes, orchids, insects and mosses that live inside the upper reaches of the forest and, as it's largely silent, cuts down the chances of animals being frightened by the oncoming thudding of feet. For those staying in the lodge, torch-lit night rides (until 9pm) examine the canopy's nocturnal inhabitants. More conventionally, you can also explore the park via a network of ground-level trails.
In his book, Life Above the Jungle Floor, Perry tells how he risked life and limb to get the project started. Committed to protecting the rainforest canopy and the jungle floor, he refused to allow the construction firm erecting the tram's high-wire towers to use tractors; they were unable to secure a powerful enough helicopter in Costa Rica, but Nicaragua's Sandinistas came to the rescue, loaning one of their MI-17 combat helicopters (minus the guns) to help erect the poles.
Less than an hour from San José, the turn-off for the aerial tram is on the right-hand side of the highway, 5.3km beyond the (signed) bridge over the Río Sucio. From the turn-off it's another 1.5km walk or drive. To get there by bus, catch the Guápiles service from San José (C 0, Av 11) and ask the driver to drop you at the turn-off. The return Guápiles– San José bus will stop when flagged down, unless it's full. Alternatively, and much more conveniently, you can organize a tour ($85 per person) with the tram's San José office on C 7, Av 7 ( 
257-5961, 
257-6053, 
www.rainforesttram.com ), which includes transport to and from your hotel, a guided aerial excursion, a meal and hiking on nature trails. At a slightly higher price, San José travel agencies offer similar trips, as well as tours combining the tram with other regional attractions such as the La Guácima butterfly farm. The tram's jungle lodge comprises ten luxury bungalows, all with bathrooms and views of the forest. Room rates of $109 include unlimited tram rides and access to the trails as well as three meals a day. For tram trips, it's advisable to wear a hat and insect repellent and to bring binoculars, camera and rain gear.