Costa Rica Guide
The Valle Central and the highlands
Parque Nacional Tapantí
Rugged, pristine PARQUE NACIONAL TAPANTÍ (daily 8am–3.45pm; $7; 
551-2970) receives one of the highest average annual rainfalls (a whopping 5600mm) in the country – if you really want to get wet, go in October. Altitude in this watershed area ranges from 1220m to 2560m above sea level and contains two life zones: low mountain and premontane rainforest. It's chock-full of mammals; about 45 species live here, including the tapir (danta), the brocket deer (cabro de monte), the mountain hare (conejo de monte) and wildcats, along with birds such as the golden oriole, falcons, doves, hawks and the quetzal. Because of the wet, frogs, salamanders and snakes abound.
Tapantí's trails are relatively short and densely wooded. The wide, 4km Camino Principal, or main road, leads off from the puesto at Quebrada Segunda (Second Creek), 12km south of Orosí. Leading off from this are three walks under much denser cover: the steep and difficult Sendero Natural Arboles Caídos to the east, and the Senderos Oropendola and Pantanoso to the west. All provide anywhere from twenty minutes' to three hours' walking. Towards the end of the main trail, Sendero La Pava leads to the Río Grande de Orosí and a mirador with views of a waterfall. Whenever you go, bring rain gear and dress in layers. If the sun is out it can be blindingly hot, whereas at higher elevations, when overcast and rainy, it can feel quite cool. Despite its low numbers of visitors, Tapantí has good services, with toilets and drinking water at regular intervals along the trails.
Getting to Tapantí by public transport is difficult. From Cartago, take the bus to Orosí, from where you can catch a jeep taxi ($12 each way) to the park. Alternatively, but less conveniently, stay on the bus until its final stop at the tiny hamlet of Río Macho and then walk the 9km to the park. Driving from Orosí, turn left at the coffee factory, cross the small bridge and then take the first right and then almost immediately the first left before continuing for 10km along a bad road (you'll need a 4WD in the rainy season).
You can stay just outside the park in rustic cabinas with bunk beds ($3); ask for details and pay at the park's ranger booth. Also near the park is the Kiri Mountain Lodge ( 533-2272, 
www.kirilodge.com ; Price: $31-50) with comfortable rooms and a restaurant and bar; they can also arrange guided walks and trout-fishing. To camp, head for the Finca Los Maestros ( 533-3312; $2 per person), 800m before the park. It's run by friendly local schoolteacher Mireya Aquilar who will cook on request ($2 for breakfast; $4 for lunch or dinner).