Costa Rica Guide
The Valle Central and the highlands
Parque Nacional Juan Castro Blanco
Harbouring the headwaters for five rivers, the 143-square-kilometre PARQUE NACIONAL JUAN CASTRO BLANCO is one of Costa Rica's least-explored national parks. Created in 1992 to protect the Platanar and Porvenir volcanoes from logging, more than half the park consists of lush primary forest. Scant marked trails and minimal tourist infrastructure in the surrounding villages has made it something of an off-the-beaten-path destination for anglers, hikers and wildlife enthusiasts. Rare species of birds, such as quetzal and crested guan, can be spotted here, while armadillo, tapir, red brocket deer and white-faced capuchin monkey also roam the park.
Mapache Tours ( 
479-8333, 
www.mapachetours.com ) operate out of La Fortuna and offer full-day tours to Juan Castro Blanco ($90), but if you want to visit independently, you'll need your own car.
While the park can be reached along rough roads from Ciudad Quesada or Zarcero, the most convenient option is to strike 21km north of Sarchí Norte along a steep, scenic paved road to the mountain-ringed village of Bajos del Toro Amarillo. Cradled between the Platanar and Poás volcanoes, tourism is starting to take off in Bajos del Toro Amarillo, with new hotels springing up around the village. You can bed down at Centro Turistico Toro Amarillo ( 761-1948; Price: $11-20), one block east of the church, which has four basic cabinas, all with private hot water bathrooms; one cabina has a kitchen and can sleep up to eight people. The on-site restaurant has a trout pond where you can catch your own dinner. The lakeside Truchas Nene ( 761-1933; Price: $21-30), 400m south of the church, has two comfortable cabins, hot water bathrooms and a restaurant with trout-fishing ponds. If you need a guide to take you into the park, most of the hotels and restaurants in the village can hook you up with a knowledgeable local.